Laser Cutter/Instructions

The lasercutter software on the laser PC is able to import DXF format files.

If you get the option, choose DXF Revision 14, but I don't think this matters too much.

Text, needs to be transformed into 'outlines' in order to cut. In order for an area to be engraved ("coloured in") the shape needs to be a closed loop, and any areas inside (for example the letter '0') need to ... something. I don't think a compound-path is necessary. Can't remember.

In the lasercutter software, each colour is its own layer, and has it's own power/speed cut/engrave settings and can be disabled.

this site creates half-tone versions of images

hints and tips

For list of material settings, see Cutting Parameters.

Adobe Illustrator, and ...(other) software can create DXF files. There is software on the lasercutter PC that can convert from EPS or SVG. It's a good idea to bring those formats too, in case you need to tweak the file. Some DXF files just refuse to be imported, so you might be able to find a way around that.

In Adobe Illustrator, sometimes the different colours you set text come through as different layers, and sometimes not. I didn't find a pattern to it.

Colouring different layers is useful for setting the cutting order of parts (usually you'd want to cut the holes before the outside of the shape, as once cut the "hole-of-the-donut" will fall down, and its position change.

The "power" of the laser will usually be above 10 (or 15) as anything below that will not show. Power ranges up to 100.

Speed is in mm/s but this speed is not instantly achieved (as the head physically has to accelerate and decelerate) and so whist accelerating, or cornering, the power to speed ratio is not ... what you set. The software compensates for this (really quite well) and has an additional setting called 'corner cut power'. We advise this to be set a little lower, but if all you are doing is cutting all the way through it, this is of no interest, as you want to go 'all the way _and more_'

The width of the laser-cut (kerf)

Is somewhere between 0.1-0.2mm, but is material dependant a bit. Also possibly speed dependant, and possibly wider at the top or bottom (depending on the height of the laser-head) You CAN make things fit exactly, or get friction-fit, but it's a hassle. You'd need to measure first to get an accurate real-world number to use.

Somebody just measured:
On 3 mm acrylic a 20x20 mm square was 19.7x19.6mm (so 0.15 and 0.2)
Nylon 1mm it was 19.5x19.4 (0.25 and 0.3)