Difference between revisions of "A2 Greyfin Laser Cutter Materials Information"

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[[File:Burned ply.jpg|thumb|right|these areas might need many re-runs to finally cut through and are messy]]
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[[File:Lasercut foam box alone sm.jpg|thumb|right|Lasercut foam]]
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Really, the settings on the cutter change often enough that it's always best to re-test your material.
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The power goes from 15-100, and speed is mm/second. Below 15 either the "laser doesn't fire", or its effects are not perceptible. (I will add a photo of that test thing I did)
 +
 
 +
If you're trying to cut through something, just put power at maximum and adjust the speed.
 +
 
 +
20mm/s is a moderate speed. 10 is on the slow end and 5 is irritatingly slow. With paper or card, you can easily go at 100mm/s and over, but you have to remember that the head of the lasercutter has to speed up and slow down. This is "corner power" and is a noticeably robust system.
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With plywood, you'll find that some tiny areas do not cut. In fact they seem heat-proof. You might need to re-cut them many times. In the lasercutter software you can cut a spline/line, and then isolate just the areas of the drawing you want to re-cut, saving tons of time. Those areas will likely look (and smell!) very burned, which might be a problem if you're trying to do something beautiful.
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{| class="wikitable"
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|-
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! Material !! Colour !! Thickness !! Speed !! Power !! Comment
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|-
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| Material || Colour || Thickness || Speed || Power || Comment
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|-
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| Perspex || Clear || 3 || 15 || 55 (100) ||  oct 2020
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|-
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| Perspex || Clear || 5 || 10 || 55 || 
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|-
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| Perspex || Black || 3 || 20 || 55 || 
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|-
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| Perspex || Clear || - || 450 || 12 - 22 || Engrave - see sample
 +
|-
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|  ||  ||  ||  ||  || 
 +
|-
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| Ply || Birch || 3 || 15-20 || 50 || 
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|-
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| Ply || Birch || 6 || 8 || 50 || 
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|-
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| Ply || Birch || - || 300 || 22-30 || Engrave - see sample
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|-
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|  ||  ||  ||  ||  || 
 +
|-
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| Mount board || Black || - || 20 || 50 || cut
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|-
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| Mount board ||  ||  || 400 || 25 || engrave
 +
|-
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|  ||  ||  ||  ||  || 
 +
|-
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| Slate || Black || - || 400 || 25 || engrave
 +
|-
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|  ||  ||  ||  ||  || 
 +
|-
 +
| Cotton || White || - || 80 || 18 || 
 +
|-
 +
|  ||  ||  ||  ||  || 
 +
|-
 +
| HIPS || White || 1 || 25 || 20 || 
 +
|-
 +
| HIPS || White || 1 || 400 || 18 || score - not quite right
 +
|-
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| HIPS || White || 2 || 12 || 25 || 
 +
|-
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|  ||  ||  ||  ||  || 
 +
|-
 +
| Card || Blue || - || 250 || 20 || Engrave
 +
|-
 +
| Card || Blue || - || 600 || 15 || Engrave
 +
|-
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|  ||  ||  ||  ||  || 
 +
|-
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| Corrugated card || Beige || 3 || 60 || 20 || Cut
 +
|-
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|  ||  ||  ||  ||  || 
 +
|-
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| Nylon - Taffeta || Black || - || 100 || 20 || 
 +
|-
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| Nylon || Black || 1mm || 20 || 100 || 
 +
|-
 +
|  ||  ||  ||  ||  || 
 +
|-
 +
| Balsa || White || 3 || 40 || 30 || Cut
 +
|-
 +
| Balsa || White || 3 || 500 || 12 || Engrave
 +
|-
 +
|  ||  ||  ||  ||  || 
 +
|-
 +
| Polypropylene || Clear || - || 450 || 16 || Engrave
 +
|-
 +
|  ||  ||  ||  ||  || 
 +
|-
 +
| Acetate || Clear || <1 || 100 || 10 || Cut
 +
|-
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|  ||  ||  ||  ||  || 
 +
|-
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| Foam || grey || 10mm || 300 || 100 || 4 runs
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|-
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| Foam || grey || 50mm || 300 || 100 || 8 runs then move head down, then 4 more
 +
|-
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| Example || Example || Example || Example || Example || Example
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|}
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Reduce power for Corner setting by ~10%

Latest revision as of 21:08, 18 November 2020

these areas might need many re-runs to finally cut through and are messy
Lasercut foam

Really, the settings on the cutter change often enough that it's always best to re-test your material.

The power goes from 15-100, and speed is mm/second. Below 15 either the "laser doesn't fire", or its effects are not perceptible. (I will add a photo of that test thing I did)

If you're trying to cut through something, just put power at maximum and adjust the speed.

20mm/s is a moderate speed. 10 is on the slow end and 5 is irritatingly slow. With paper or card, you can easily go at 100mm/s and over, but you have to remember that the head of the lasercutter has to speed up and slow down. This is "corner power" and is a noticeably robust system.

With plywood, you'll find that some tiny areas do not cut. In fact they seem heat-proof. You might need to re-cut them many times. In the lasercutter software you can cut a spline/line, and then isolate just the areas of the drawing you want to re-cut, saving tons of time. Those areas will likely look (and smell!) very burned, which might be a problem if you're trying to do something beautiful.


Material Colour Thickness Speed Power Comment
Material Colour Thickness Speed Power Comment
Perspex Clear 3 15 55 (100) oct 2020
Perspex Clear 5 10 55
Perspex Black 3 20 55
Perspex Clear - 450 12 - 22 Engrave - see sample
Ply Birch 3 15-20 50
Ply Birch 6 8 50
Ply Birch - 300 22-30 Engrave - see sample
Mount board Black - 20 50 cut
Mount board 400 25 engrave
Slate Black - 400 25 engrave
Cotton White - 80 18
HIPS White 1 25 20
HIPS White 1 400 18 score - not quite right
HIPS White 2 12 25
Card Blue - 250 20 Engrave
Card Blue - 600 15 Engrave
Corrugated card Beige 3 60 20 Cut
Nylon - Taffeta Black - 100 20
Nylon Black 1mm 20 100
Balsa White 3 40 30 Cut
Balsa White 3 500 12 Engrave
Polypropylene Clear - 450 16 Engrave
Acetate Clear <1 100 10 Cut
Foam grey 10mm 300 100 4 runs
Foam grey 50mm 300 100 8 runs then move head down, then 4 more
Example Example Example Example Example Example

Reduce power for Corner setting by ~10%

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