Norwich Hackspace - User contributions [en-gb]

14/22

2022-05-11T12:57:05Z

Toby Catlin: /* Comments */

== Title ==
Router table and routers

== Proposer ==
B Norcutt - Plexer

== Date proposed ==
11/05/2022

== Date for Decision ==
Usually one week after posting
Open for now for discussion

== Cost ==


A router table
[https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-cabinet-router-table-107092 cabinet-router-table-107092] - £279.98
or
[https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-folding-router-table-kit-717613 /axminster-folding-router-table] - £229.98

Router for table
[https://www.homebase.co.uk/bosch-pof-1400-corded-router/12825017.html?affil=thggps&switchcurrency=GBP&shippingcountry=GB&gclid=dc1a17c04ab61107537e75bbebe3be5d&gclsrc=3p.ds&&afil=thgppc&msclkid=dc1a17c04ab61107537e75bbebe3be5d&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=UK-EN-BI-PLA-EDRM-Power%20Tools&utm_term=4583382970245740&utm_content=PLA-Power%20tools bosch-pof-1400-corded-router] - £125

Handheld router for general purpose use
[https://www.homebase.co.uk/bosch-pof-1400-corded-router/12825017.html?affil=thggps&switchcurrency=GBP&shippingcountry=GB&gclid=dc1a17c04ab61107537e75bbebe3be5d&gclsrc=3p.ds&&afil=thgppc&msclkid=dc1a17c04ab61107537e75bbebe3be5d&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=UK-EN-BI-PLA-EDRM-Power%20Tools&utm_term=4583382970245740&utm_content=PLA-Power%20tools bosch-pof-1400-corded-router] - £125

== What is being asked for ==
Hackspace to purchase

== Why/how this will be good to have ==
Updating of equipment in the Hackspace there is currently a router however it was found to be missing parts this week and a router is a good tool to have.

A table mounted router allows longer pieces of timber to be routed and for certain operations can be safer than the table saw however anyone using it still needs to be competent

== Who is for it ==
All the woodworkers

== Comments ==
tobyc - I think a router table would be a good addition to the workshop. Of course I am tempted to suggest building our our table because we have plenty of extruded alu and its well within our capabilities. However the cabinet does look good value, so if there is suitable demand then its worth it.

== Outcome ==

Belt Grinder 2x72

2022-04-26T09:00:23Z

Toby Catlin: /* Reference Images */

= Belt grinder 2 x 72 =
Ideal for fast metal removal to shape knives and other parts

=== Kit ===
Flat pack kit from Fransham forge
https://www.forged-ironmongery.co.uk/product/2-x-72-belt-sander-knife-making-machine-kit/

=== Tasks ===
* Drill axle holes in plates
* Weld frame
* Get a drive wheel
* Test Barnys motors
* Motor mount plate
* Electrics, start/stop

=== Reference Images ===
<gallery>
Side view.jpg|Side
Beltgrinder-motorside.jpg|motor
Beltgrinder-front.jpg|front
Beltgrinder-back.jpg|back
Beltgrinder-platten.jpg|platten
</gallery>

Belt Grinder 2x72

2022-04-26T08:59:38Z

Toby Catlin:

= Belt grinder 2 x 72 =
Ideal for fast metal removal to shape knives and other parts

=== Kit ===
Flat pack kit from Fransham forge
https://www.forged-ironmongery.co.uk/product/2-x-72-belt-sander-knife-making-machine-kit/

=== Tasks ===
* Drill axle holes in plates
* Weld frame
* Get a drive wheel
* Test Barnys motors
* Motor mount plate
* Electrics, start/stop

=== Reference Images ===
<gallery>
[[File:Side view.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Beltgrinder-motorside.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Beltgrinder-front.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Beltgrinder-back.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Beltgrinder-platten.jpg|thumb]]
</gallery>

Belt Grinder 2x72

2022-04-26T08:58:45Z

Toby Catlin:

= Belt grinder 2 x 72 =
Ideal for fast metal removal to shape knives and other parts

=== Kit ===
Flat pack kit from Fransham forge
https://www.forged-ironmongery.co.uk/product/2-x-72-belt-sander-knife-making-machine-kit/

=== Tasks ===
* Drill axle holes in plates
* Weld frame
* Get a drive wheel
* Test Barnys motors
* Motor mount plate
* Electrics, start/stop

=== Reference Images ===
[[File:Side view.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Beltgrinder-motorside.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Beltgrinder-front.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Beltgrinder-back.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Beltgrinder-platten.jpg|thumb]]

File:Beltgrinder-platten.jpg

2022-04-26T08:58:34Z

Toby Catlin:

Beltgrinder-platten

File:Beltgrinder-back.jpg

2022-04-26T08:57:49Z

Toby Catlin:

Beltgrinder-back

File:Beltgrinder-front.jpg

2022-04-26T08:54:44Z

Toby Catlin:

front

File:Beltgrinder-motorside.jpg

2022-04-26T08:53:49Z

Toby Catlin:

Motor side view

File:Side view.jpg

2022-04-26T08:52:45Z

Toby Catlin:

Belt grinder side

12/22

2022-03-18T09:54:20Z

Toby Catlin:

== Title ==
Heat press for plastics recycling and screen printing

== Proposer ==
Lottie Matless and Victoria Catten

== Date proposed ==
12/3/2022

== Date for Decision ==
TBA
12/4/22
== Cost ==
TBA

== What is being asked for ==
Heated press with a work area of around A4 (210 x 297 mm)
Adjustable temperature up to 250c
Timer
Pressure??

- Acrylic 160 °C
- HDPE 125 °C

== Why/how this will be good to have ==

* Make jewellery and accessories from acrylic and other plastics
* Screenprinted garments need heat and pressure to fix ink
* Thermo transfers to fabric (iron on transfers)
* Recycling offcuts back into sheets for reuse
* Melty abstract art projects

== Buy ==
Crenex 30x38cm Heat Press £95
https://www.onbuy.com/gb/crenex-30x38cm-heat-press-machine-printer-transfer-t-shirt~c9991~p45925911/

== Build ==
A cheap PID controller kit can be used to keep any 240v heating element at a set value. This is what was used for the Plastics Oven and is very easy to get working.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yosoo-Health-Gear-Temperature-Thermocouple/dp/B08JKV78RW
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/heating-elements/9210032

The frame is the harder bit and would require some design thought.
We can make a metal frame and source some heavy steel plate. Some thought would be needed as to how to apply pressure, lead screw or levers.
Could reuse something like the book press.

== Who is for it ==
Victoria Catten, Lottie, Toby C, Peter H, Marion, Alan, TimP

== Comments ==

== Outcome ==

Angle grinder

2021-11-18T11:12:08Z

Toby Catlin:

<div id="mw-content-text" lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr"><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: center; width: 60% margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; font-size: 1.3em; border: 2px solid red;">
'''RED''' equipment: Do not use unless confident.
 </div> 

= Angle grinders =
# Small red - long term loan
# Large grey - tobyc

=== Induction Required ===
Watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJRSkBSb5S8&ab_channel=Weld.com
Angle grinders are common equipment but if any doubts at all then induction is required.

==== Dangers! ====
# Disc's can shatter especially if they are twisted in the slot being cut
# Know where your fingers/knuckles are in relation to the disc at all times
# Pay attention to where the sparks are going, they will set fires and ruin equipment with dust.

==== Safety ====
# Full face shield (Safety glasses absolute minimum)
# Ear defenders
# Gloves recommended

=== Discs ===
There are several main types of disc
# 1 mm cutting - great for slicing up metal as you would with a hacksaw but much faster
# Grinding disc - used for dressing welds and smoothing corners etc
# Flap disc - similar uses as grinding disc but especially good for flattening out welds
# Paint removal disc - err for removing paint

Angle grinder

2021-11-18T11:11:49Z

Toby Catlin:

<div id="mw-content-text" lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr"><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: center; width: 60% margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; font-size: 1.3em; border: 2px solid red;">
'''RED''' equipment: Do not use without specific training.
 </div> 

= Angle grinders =
# Small red - long term loan
# Large grey - tobyc

=== Induction Required ===
Watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJRSkBSb5S8&ab_channel=Weld.com
Angle grinders are common equipment but if any doubts at all then induction is required.

==== Dangers! ====
# Disc's can shatter especially if they are twisted in the slot being cut
# Know where your fingers/knuckles are in relation to the disc at all times
# Pay attention to where the sparks are going, they will set fires and ruin equipment with dust.

==== Safety ====
# Full face shield (Safety glasses absolute minimum)
# Ear defenders
# Gloves recommended

=== Discs ===
There are several main types of disc
# 1 mm cutting - great for slicing up metal as you would with a hacksaw but much faster
# Grinding disc - used for dressing welds and smoothing corners etc
# Flap disc - similar uses as grinding disc but especially good for flattening out welds
# Paint removal disc - err for removing paint

Angle grinder

2021-11-18T09:51:03Z

Toby Catlin: Created page with " https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJRSkBSb5S8&ab_channel=Weld.com"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJRSkBSb5S8&ab_channel=Weld.com

Metal Workshop

2021-11-18T09:50:40Z

Toby Catlin: /* Equipment List */

[[Category:Area]]

'''Workshop now has an alarm system. Contact Toby for further details'''

==Maintainer: Toby==

==Training Requirements==
Whilst all use of Tools and Equipment is at your own risk each one will have a colour code denoting how much knowledge is required to operated it

* '''RED''' - You must be inducted by the maintainer / trainer and signed off as being competent
* '''ORANGE''' - You must read all the provided information and assess yourself as being competent of using the tool safely, if in doubt ask the area maintainer or other member for help
* '''GREEN''' - Fill your boots
 
==Equipment List==
* [[Tig Welder]] - RED
* Welder Mig - RED
* Welder Arc - RED 
*
* [[Cube Forge]] - RED
* [[Pot Furnace]] - RED 
*
* [[Elliot Pillar Drill]] - RED
* [[Harrison M250 lathe]] - RED
* [[Milling Machine]] - RED 
*
* [[Angle grinder]] - RED
* [[TCT Chop saw]] - RED
* [[Blue Air Compressor]] - GREEN
* [[Pedestal grinder]] - RED
* [[Belt Grinder 2x72]] - GREEN
* Drilling table - RED 
*
* Plasma Cutter (in progress)
[[:Category:Equipment]]

==Hand Tools==
* Tap and Die set (for Threading)

==To do List==
[[Metal workshop improvements mk1]]

Plasma CNC

2021-10-12T12:08:38Z

Toby Catlin: /* 18-8-2021 */

==Summary==
Build a large sized XY CNC table capable of using a plasma torch to accurately cut metal.

* Project lead: Toby
* Team:
* Location: Metalspace
* Status: Design phase

Help wanted: electronics, cad, frame

==Equipment==
* 2x Y-axis 2m Rollon ELM65 enclosed linear rail
* 1x X-axis Rollon ROBOT130 X gantry
* 2x Servo motors 86HSE8N-BC38
* 2x HSS86 servo motor drivers
* 2x bonfiglioli MP 080 planetary gearboxes
* A crappy steel frame

The Rollon rails are very high quality industrial components that are sealed to dust. The Y axis rails use toothed belts inside the rail and the X axis used ball screws and twin linear rails. The motors are large high powered units with encoders that measure the actual movement and sends it back to the driver. This closed loop setup means that the driver can compensate for any missed step allowing for finer microstepping and increased reliability.

== Docs ==
* [[Media:HSS86_manual.pdf]]
* [[Media:GRBL_Settings_Pocket_Guide.pdf]]

==Hardware==

===Frame===
The frame must be as rigid as practically possible whilst still portable.

Plan A - 40mm box steel, 5mm wall thickness
Rectangle: 1345mm x 1825mm
For additional stiffness two such rectangles could be stacked and braced.

[[File:PlasmaCNC v9.png|600px]]

Side
[[File:Frame side elevation.png|600px]]

Top
[[File:Frame top elevation.png|600px]]
This was a suggestion to increase stiffness at reduced cost

Plan B - Use 60mm I-beam for y rails

===MP 080 gearbox===
MP 080 2 70 STD 73A1 CD 14 S1 OR SB KE

MP - range
080 - model/frame size
2 - reduction
70 - gear ratio
STD - Backlash (standard = 15')
73A1- input shaft
CD - motor couping (CD - clamping device)
14 - input shaft bore
S1 - duty (S1 = continuous)
OR - position (OR = horizontal)
SB - Output shaft bearings (SB = standard)
KE - Output shaft config (KE - keyed shaft)

===HSS86 servo motor drivers===

===86HSE8N-BC38 Servo motors===

===Rollon ELM65===
Uses AT5 32mm steel reinforced polyurethane belt
AT5 refers to the tooth spacing of 5mm

===Rollon ROBOT130===

==Software==
Looking at the HSS86 datasheet it appear to work just like standard polou steppers that take a ENABLE, DIR & STEP signal input. Therefore a GRBL based controller should be ideal for driving the CNC.

I have successfully driven one of the motors using a basic arduino sketch to send pulse and dir signals.
Setting the signals high +5 volts with a common ground did not work. The datasheet for HSS86 shows a common 5v with a on signal represented as pin output low. This requirement means that GRBL is not working and need to configure GRBL to invert the high/low signals.

== Progress ==
=== 18-8-2021 ===
Gave up on farbricator and decided to try and make it myself.
Bought 10m of 60x60x5mm box steel
Cut into lengths of 2m and 1.5m.
Drilled a set of holes along the length of each Y section. Way over did this as i drilled 5 holes in a sqare pattern every 100mm. The could have easily been reduced.

Used a thick metal square to make a larger 90 deg square from the 60mm box. Could then use both squares on internal and external corners. With many clamps and the three point support method I got the frame pretty square.
Made some rudamentary plates to link the rails to the frame

=== 18-03-2021 ===
CAD drawing of basic frame done and quotes sent to Eastern steel and oak street fab

=== 11-10-2020 ===
Starting the frame by drawing it out in fusion360, using this tutorial as a https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH3QWscviBc
Aim to calculate what steel is needed to purchase and use the model to make it as strong as possible.

note: box tube fillets (curves on edges) are:
* External radius = 1.5t
* Internal radius = 1.0t
(where t = wall thickness)

=== 04-10-2020 - LESSON LEARNT! do not run into the endstops ===
It turned out the test of running into the endstop was catastrophic as it snapped the drive side Y axis belt. This was discovered by removing the black dust strip to see the belt bunched up inside. I could also move the mount plate without the drive motor turning.

We (toby & alan) took apart the Y rail starting with the drive motor side and could see that the belt had cleanly snapped where it connects to the mount plate. The belt is held down into a toothed metal connector so we moved both sides down by 3 teeth, so that the belt is effectively held by half the original amount of belt. Far from ideal and will be replaced but should hold for now.

Upon reassembling, I realised the black dust strip has to be bolted into the rail end plate before assembly otherwise you dont have access to the nuts underneath. The drive side needs to be attached first to be able to get the belt round the drive pulley.

The belt is Megadyne 32 AT5

=== 27-09-2020 - Y axis ===
Given the success of running the X axis, I wanted to check the movement of the Y axis and so bolted the Y rails to the frame and the X gantry to the Y rails. I took some extra time to align the rails and added a 10mm spacer block of steel under then ends of the Y rail for support.

Both Y rails moved well if a bit slowly. The torque seems huge as I cannot even begin to slow down the drive by hand. I also did a test to see if the encoders would detect the rails being run into the end stop. They didn't.

=== 20-09-2020 - GRBL works ===
The simple sketch showed it was possible to drive the HSS86 from an Arduino so it must be possible to get GRBL working if it can be configured to output the correct signals.
The default is for the output pin to be HIGH when on. Due to the wiring of the HSS86 we now need to pull the pin LOW to indicate on. Therefore the output signals for GRBL also need to be inverted so that LOW is on rather than high.

GBBL has a numbered config array that is stored on flash memory on the Arduino.
The docs indicates that $2 controls "Step Pulse Configuration" and will invert any of the axis according to a bit mask.

$2=7 will invert all the axis

Once I had set this value and fixed a wiring mistake the X gantry moved using GRBL by sending Gcode over the serial monitor. It also followed the acceleration curves set by GRBL and was smoother than the simple sketch.

WOOT WOOT - this means all of the required functionality will work via GRBL

I also spent some time dialing in the steps per mm setting ($100) so that it would move the correct amount according to the steps sent. Ideally I would calculate this but I don't know the rollon specs or the planetary gearbox specs. Using a round guess I got it close with $100=300 but will need a dial indicator to improve further. It also might be possible to find the numbers in the Rollon docs.

=== 12-09-2020 - Simple test sketch ===
The datasheet for the HSS86 shows that all the +5v pins should be connected and the signal pins pulled low.
[[File:HSS86 wiring diagram.png|thumb]]

This makes no sense especially as the previous owner had also wired ground together but seemed to be worth trying. I had some very useful discussion on slack and was suggested that GRBL was not good to test with as its pretty complicated with lots to go wrong. I switched to a much simpler sketch that essentially just set the output pins. I used the same pinouts that GRBL uses for the X axis (2,5,8).

<pre>
const int stepPin = 2; //white
const int dirPin = 5; //black
const int enPin = 8; //red
char data;
float step_delay_time = 500;

void setup() {
pinMode(stepPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(dirPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(enPin, OUTPUT);

digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
Serial.begin(115200);
}

void loop() {
if (Serial.available() > 0) // we give commands through serial monitor
{
data = Serial.read(); //command from monitor
if (data == 'a') //stepper 1 right
{
digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
digitalWrite(dirPin, HIGH); //motor will rotate write
for (int x = 0; x < 500; x++)
{
digitalWrite(stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(step_delay_time);
digitalWrite(stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(step_delay_time);

Serial.println(x);
if (Serial.read() == 'x') //to stop
{
digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
Serial.print("stop");
break;
}
}
}
}
</pre>
Much to my surprise and pleasure this worked.

=== 09-09-2020 - Test drive #1 ===
The plan is to feed the HSS86 driver with the same signals as standard stepper motors. This is to send +5v to the STEP, DIR and ENABLE pins and have all the grounds connected together. I GRBL to send the pulses with universal gcode sender. After a few hours of fiddling nothing worked.

Plasma CNC

2021-09-23T09:36:43Z

Toby Catlin: /* Progress */

==Summary==
Build a large sized XY CNC table capable of using a plasma torch to accurately cut metal.

* Project lead: Toby
* Team:
* Location: Metalspace
* Status: Design phase

Help wanted: electronics, cad, frame

==Equipment==
* 2x Y-axis 2m Rollon ELM65 enclosed linear rail
* 1x X-axis Rollon ROBOT130 X gantry
* 2x Servo motors 86HSE8N-BC38
* 2x HSS86 servo motor drivers
* 2x bonfiglioli MP 080 planetary gearboxes
* A crappy steel frame

The Rollon rails are very high quality industrial components that are sealed to dust. The Y axis rails use toothed belts inside the rail and the X axis used ball screws and twin linear rails. The motors are large high powered units with encoders that measure the actual movement and sends it back to the driver. This closed loop setup means that the driver can compensate for any missed step allowing for finer microstepping and increased reliability.

== Docs ==
* [[Media:HSS86_manual.pdf]]
* [[Media:GRBL_Settings_Pocket_Guide.pdf]]

==Hardware==

===Frame===
The frame must be as rigid as practically possible whilst still portable.

Plan A - 40mm box steel, 5mm wall thickness
Rectangle: 1345mm x 1825mm
For additional stiffness two such rectangles could be stacked and braced.

[[File:PlasmaCNC v9.png|600px]]

Side
[[File:Frame side elevation.png|600px]]

Top
[[File:Frame top elevation.png|600px]]
This was a suggestion to increase stiffness at reduced cost

Plan B - Use 60mm I-beam for y rails

===MP 080 gearbox===
MP 080 2 70 STD 73A1 CD 14 S1 OR SB KE

MP - range
080 - model/frame size
2 - reduction
70 - gear ratio
STD - Backlash (standard = 15')
73A1- input shaft
CD - motor couping (CD - clamping device)
14 - input shaft bore
S1 - duty (S1 = continuous)
OR - position (OR = horizontal)
SB - Output shaft bearings (SB = standard)
KE - Output shaft config (KE - keyed shaft)

===HSS86 servo motor drivers===

===86HSE8N-BC38 Servo motors===

===Rollon ELM65===
Uses AT5 32mm steel reinforced polyurethane belt
AT5 refers to the tooth spacing of 5mm

===Rollon ROBOT130===

==Software==
Looking at the HSS86 datasheet it appear to work just like standard polou steppers that take a ENABLE, DIR & STEP signal input. Therefore a GRBL based controller should be ideal for driving the CNC.

I have successfully driven one of the motors using a basic arduino sketch to send pulse and dir signals.
Setting the signals high +5 volts with a common ground did not work. The datasheet for HSS86 shows a common 5v with a on signal represented as pin output low. This requirement means that GRBL is not working and need to configure GRBL to invert the high/low signals.

== Progress ==
=== 18-8-2021 ===
Gave up on farbricator as he was useless and decided to try and make it myself.
Bought 10m of 60x60x5mm box steel
Cut into lengths of 2m and 1.5m.
Drilled a set of holes along the length of each Y section. Way over did this as i drilled 5 holes in a sqare pattern every 100mm. The could have easily been reduced.

Used a thick metal square to make a larger 90 deg square from the 60mm box. Could then use both squares on internal and external corners. With many clamps and the three point support method I got the frame pretty square.
Made some rudamentary plates to link the rails to the frame

=== 18-03-2021 ===
CAD drawing of basic frame done and quotes sent to Eastern steel and oak street fab

=== 11-10-2020 ===
Starting the frame by drawing it out in fusion360, using this tutorial as a https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH3QWscviBc
Aim to calculate what steel is needed to purchase and use the model to make it as strong as possible.

note: box tube fillets (curves on edges) are:
* External radius = 1.5t
* Internal radius = 1.0t
(where t = wall thickness)

=== 04-10-2020 - LESSON LEARNT! do not run into the endstops ===
It turned out the test of running into the endstop was catastrophic as it snapped the drive side Y axis belt. This was discovered by removing the black dust strip to see the belt bunched up inside. I could also move the mount plate without the drive motor turning.

We (toby & alan) took apart the Y rail starting with the drive motor side and could see that the belt had cleanly snapped where it connects to the mount plate. The belt is held down into a toothed metal connector so we moved both sides down by 3 teeth, so that the belt is effectively held by half the original amount of belt. Far from ideal and will be replaced but should hold for now.

Upon reassembling, I realised the black dust strip has to be bolted into the rail end plate before assembly otherwise you dont have access to the nuts underneath. The drive side needs to be attached first to be able to get the belt round the drive pulley.

The belt is Megadyne 32 AT5

=== 27-09-2020 - Y axis ===
Given the success of running the X axis, I wanted to check the movement of the Y axis and so bolted the Y rails to the frame and the X gantry to the Y rails. I took some extra time to align the rails and added a 10mm spacer block of steel under then ends of the Y rail for support.

Both Y rails moved well if a bit slowly. The torque seems huge as I cannot even begin to slow down the drive by hand. I also did a test to see if the encoders would detect the rails being run into the end stop. They didn't.

=== 20-09-2020 - GRBL works ===
The simple sketch showed it was possible to drive the HSS86 from an Arduino so it must be possible to get GRBL working if it can be configured to output the correct signals.
The default is for the output pin to be HIGH when on. Due to the wiring of the HSS86 we now need to pull the pin LOW to indicate on. Therefore the output signals for GRBL also need to be inverted so that LOW is on rather than high.

GBBL has a numbered config array that is stored on flash memory on the Arduino.
The docs indicates that $2 controls "Step Pulse Configuration" and will invert any of the axis according to a bit mask.

$2=7 will invert all the axis

Once I had set this value and fixed a wiring mistake the X gantry moved using GRBL by sending Gcode over the serial monitor. It also followed the acceleration curves set by GRBL and was smoother than the simple sketch.

WOOT WOOT - this means all of the required functionality will work via GRBL

I also spent some time dialing in the steps per mm setting ($100) so that it would move the correct amount according to the steps sent. Ideally I would calculate this but I don't know the rollon specs or the planetary gearbox specs. Using a round guess I got it close with $100=300 but will need a dial indicator to improve further. It also might be possible to find the numbers in the Rollon docs.

=== 12-09-2020 - Simple test sketch ===
The datasheet for the HSS86 shows that all the +5v pins should be connected and the signal pins pulled low.
[[File:HSS86 wiring diagram.png|thumb]]

This makes no sense especially as the previous owner had also wired ground together but seemed to be worth trying. I had some very useful discussion on slack and was suggested that GRBL was not good to test with as its pretty complicated with lots to go wrong. I switched to a much simpler sketch that essentially just set the output pins. I used the same pinouts that GRBL uses for the X axis (2,5,8).

<pre>
const int stepPin = 2; //white
const int dirPin = 5; //black
const int enPin = 8; //red
char data;
float step_delay_time = 500;

void setup() {
pinMode(stepPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(dirPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(enPin, OUTPUT);

digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
Serial.begin(115200);
}

void loop() {
if (Serial.available() > 0) // we give commands through serial monitor
{
data = Serial.read(); //command from monitor
if (data == 'a') //stepper 1 right
{
digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
digitalWrite(dirPin, HIGH); //motor will rotate write
for (int x = 0; x < 500; x++)
{
digitalWrite(stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(step_delay_time);
digitalWrite(stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(step_delay_time);

Serial.println(x);
if (Serial.read() == 'x') //to stop
{
digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
Serial.print("stop");
break;
}
}
}
}
</pre>
Much to my surprise and pleasure this worked.

=== 09-09-2020 - Test drive #1 ===
The plan is to feed the HSS86 driver with the same signals as standard stepper motors. This is to send +5v to the STEP, DIR and ENABLE pins and have all the grounds connected together. I GRBL to send the pulses with universal gcode sender. After a few hours of fiddling nothing worked.

Plasma CNC

2021-09-11T20:03:53Z

Toby Catlin:

==Summary==
Build a large sized XY CNC table capable of using a plasma torch to accurately cut metal.

* Project lead: Toby
* Team:
* Location: Metalspace
* Status: Design phase

Help wanted: electronics, cad, frame

==Equipment==
* 2x Y-axis 2m Rollon ELM65 enclosed linear rail
* 1x X-axis Rollon ROBOT130 X gantry
* 2x Servo motors 86HSE8N-BC38
* 2x HSS86 servo motor drivers
* 2x bonfiglioli MP 080 planetary gearboxes
* A crappy steel frame

The Rollon rails are very high quality industrial components that are sealed to dust. The Y axis rails use toothed belts inside the rail and the X axis used ball screws and twin linear rails. The motors are large high powered units with encoders that measure the actual movement and sends it back to the driver. This closed loop setup means that the driver can compensate for any missed step allowing for finer microstepping and increased reliability.

== Docs ==
* [[Media:HSS86_manual.pdf]]
* [[Media:GRBL_Settings_Pocket_Guide.pdf]]

==Hardware==

===Frame===
The frame must be as rigid as practically possible whilst still portable.

Plan A - 40mm box steel, 5mm wall thickness
Rectangle: 1345mm x 1825mm
For additional stiffness two such rectangles could be stacked and braced.

[[File:PlasmaCNC v9.png|600px]]

Side
[[File:Frame side elevation.png|600px]]

Top
[[File:Frame top elevation.png|600px]]
This was a suggestion to increase stiffness at reduced cost

Plan B - Use 60mm I-beam for y rails

===MP 080 gearbox===
MP 080 2 70 STD 73A1 CD 14 S1 OR SB KE

MP - range
080 - model/frame size
2 - reduction
70 - gear ratio
STD - Backlash (standard = 15')
73A1- input shaft
CD - motor couping (CD - clamping device)
14 - input shaft bore
S1 - duty (S1 = continuous)
OR - position (OR = horizontal)
SB - Output shaft bearings (SB = standard)
KE - Output shaft config (KE - keyed shaft)

===HSS86 servo motor drivers===

===86HSE8N-BC38 Servo motors===

===Rollon ELM65===
Uses AT5 32mm steel reinforced polyurethane belt
AT5 refers to the tooth spacing of 5mm

===Rollon ROBOT130===

==Software==
Looking at the HSS86 datasheet it appear to work just like standard polou steppers that take a ENABLE, DIR & STEP signal input. Therefore a GRBL based controller should be ideal for driving the CNC.

I have successfully driven one of the motors using a basic arduino sketch to send pulse and dir signals.
Setting the signals high +5 volts with a common ground did not work. The datasheet for HSS86 shows a common 5v with a on signal represented as pin output low. This requirement means that GRBL is not working and need to configure GRBL to invert the high/low signals.

== Progress ==
=== 18-03-2021 ===
CAD drawing of basic frame done and quotes sent to Eastern steel and oak street fab

=== 11-10-2020 ===
Starting the frame by drawing it out in fusion360, using this tutorial as a https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH3QWscviBc
Aim to calculate what steel is needed to purchase and use the model to make it as strong as possible.

note: box tube fillets (curves on edges) are:
* External radius = 1.5t
* Internal radius = 1.0t
(where t = wall thickness)

=== 04-10-2020 - LESSON LEARNT! do not run into the endstops ===
It turned out the test of running into the endstop was catastrophic as it snapped the drive side Y axis belt. This was discovered by removing the black dust strip to see the belt bunched up inside. I could also move the mount plate without the drive motor turning.

We (toby & alan) took apart the Y rail starting with the drive motor side and could see that the belt had cleanly snapped where it connects to the mount plate. The belt is held down into a toothed metal connector so we moved both sides down by 3 teeth, so that the belt is effectively held by half the original amount of belt. Far from ideal and will be replaced but should hold for now.

Upon reassembling, I realised the black dust strip has to be bolted into the rail end plate before assembly otherwise you dont have access to the nuts underneath. The drive side needs to be attached first to be able to get the belt round the drive pulley.

The belt is Megadyne 32 AT5

=== 27-09-2020 - Y axis ===
Given the success of running the X axis, I wanted to check the movement of the Y axis and so bolted the Y rails to the frame and the X gantry to the Y rails. I took some extra time to align the rails and added a 10mm spacer block of steel under then ends of the Y rail for support.

Both Y rails moved well if a bit slowly. The torque seems huge as I cannot even begin to slow down the drive by hand. I also did a test to see if the encoders would detect the rails being run into the end stop. They didn't.

=== 20-09-2020 - GRBL works ===
The simple sketch showed it was possible to drive the HSS86 from an Arduino so it must be possible to get GRBL working if it can be configured to output the correct signals.
The default is for the output pin to be HIGH when on. Due to the wiring of the HSS86 we now need to pull the pin LOW to indicate on. Therefore the output signals for GRBL also need to be inverted so that LOW is on rather than high.

GBBL has a numbered config array that is stored on flash memory on the Arduino.
The docs indicates that $2 controls "Step Pulse Configuration" and will invert any of the axis according to a bit mask.

$2=7 will invert all the axis

Once I had set this value and fixed a wiring mistake the X gantry moved using GRBL by sending Gcode over the serial monitor. It also followed the acceleration curves set by GRBL and was smoother than the simple sketch.

WOOT WOOT - this means all of the required functionality will work via GRBL

I also spent some time dialing in the steps per mm setting ($100) so that it would move the correct amount according to the steps sent. Ideally I would calculate this but I don't know the rollon specs or the planetary gearbox specs. Using a round guess I got it close with $100=300 but will need a dial indicator to improve further. It also might be possible to find the numbers in the Rollon docs.

=== 12-09-2020 - Simple test sketch ===
The datasheet for the HSS86 shows that all the +5v pins should be connected and the signal pins pulled low.
[[File:HSS86 wiring diagram.png|thumb]]

This makes no sense especially as the previous owner had also wired ground together but seemed to be worth trying. I had some very useful discussion on slack and was suggested that GRBL was not good to test with as its pretty complicated with lots to go wrong. I switched to a much simpler sketch that essentially just set the output pins. I used the same pinouts that GRBL uses for the X axis (2,5,8).

<pre>
const int stepPin = 2; //white
const int dirPin = 5; //black
const int enPin = 8; //red
char data;
float step_delay_time = 500;

void setup() {
pinMode(stepPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(dirPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(enPin, OUTPUT);

digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
Serial.begin(115200);
}

void loop() {
if (Serial.available() > 0) // we give commands through serial monitor
{
data = Serial.read(); //command from monitor
if (data == 'a') //stepper 1 right
{
digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
digitalWrite(dirPin, HIGH); //motor will rotate write
for (int x = 0; x < 500; x++)
{
digitalWrite(stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(step_delay_time);
digitalWrite(stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(step_delay_time);

Serial.println(x);
if (Serial.read() == 'x') //to stop
{
digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
Serial.print("stop");
break;
}
}
}
}
</pre>
Much to my surprise and pleasure this worked.

=== 09-09-2020 - Test drive #1 ===
The plan is to feed the HSS86 driver with the same signals as standard stepper motors. This is to send +5v to the STEP, DIR and ENABLE pins and have all the grounds connected together. I GRBL to send the pulses with universal gcode sender. After a few hours of fiddling nothing worked.

Maintainers

2021-09-01T19:26:53Z

Toby Catlin:

==Laser Cutter==
* Ben Norcutt (plexer)

==3D Printing==
* Dan R

==Workshop==
* alan

==Metalspace==
* tobyc

==CNC Mill==
* jamesM
* tobyc

Maintainers

2021-09-01T19:25:53Z

Toby Catlin:

==Laser Cutter==
* Ben Norcutt (plexer)

==3D Printing==
* Dan R

==Workshop==
* alan

==Metalspace==
* tobyc

Maintainers

2021-09-01T19:21:41Z

Toby Catlin:

==Laser Cutter==
* Ben Norcutt (plexer)

==3D Printing==
* Dan R

==Metalspace==
* tobyc

Lasercut Illuminated Acrylic sign

2021-08-22T09:34:41Z

Toby Catlin:

Engraving acrylic and then lighting the edge with LEDs will allow the light to break out of the acrylic where it has been cut. Using Neopixels some really nice effects can be made.
[[File:Lit Sign.jpg|thumb]]

Materials
* 8mm clear acrylic. Any thickness will work but its best if the thickness matches the LEDs
* Neopixel strip
* Circuit Playground microcontroller (Swap out for any LED controller)
* Wooden stand

Step 1
Create design. This can be done directly in Lightburn or in a vector program like Inkscape. Draw the outline of your sign, we chose a final size of 250mm x 500mm. To cut 8mm acrylic used power settings of 12 speed, 100% power, with 3 passes. Set the passes on the cut layer.

Text was added with a fill and line cut setting. Fill and line engraves the internal area and then flame polishes the edges. Speed 75, power 100% will engrave 3-4mm deep, faster speed (300) will give a shallower engrave.

Used google image search to find a svg file of the rocket and imported into Lightburn. Resized and set the cut layer to, speed 300, power 20% which cuts a shallow line.

Set the order of the layers so the layer to cutout the sign is last. This is so there is no chance of the sign moving while engraving.

File:Lit Sign.jpg

2021-08-22T09:21:53Z

Toby Catlin:

sign

Lasercut Illuminated Acrylic sign

2021-08-21T13:24:55Z

Toby Catlin: Created page with "Engraving acrylic and then lighting the edge with LEDs will allow the light to break out of the acrylic where it has been cut. Using Neopixels some really nice effects can be..."

Engraving acrylic and then lighting the edge with LEDs will allow the light to break out of the acrylic where it has been cut. Using Neopixels some really nice effects can be made

Greyfin A2 laser cutter

2021-08-21T13:23:28Z

Toby Catlin:

== DRAFT copied from LHS wiki ==
[[temporary lasercutter booking page]]

==Training==

You must not use the laser cutter without being trained. The laser cutter is unlikely to hurt you, but you can easily hurt '''it''' without training. For more information about laser cutter training, see the [[Lasercutter Training]] page.

==Costs==

* Training - Free
* Usage - £5/hour, £1/10minutes
* Consumables - Bring your own and/or use what is in the off cuts bin or purchase from the HS stock via iZettle, but always ensure (rather than assume) it's [[Laser_Cutter/Instructions#Chlorine_Testing_and_Material_Safety|laser safe]].

==How to==
* [[Lasercut Illuminated Acrylic sign]]

==Tech specs==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Spec !! Value
|-
| Laser power: || 60W Co2 laser tube
|-
| Maximum cutting area: || 600 x 400mm
|-
| Body dimensions:|| 1,360 x 880 x 1,070mm
|-
| Repeatability:|| ± 0.05mm
|-
| Power source:|| AC 110 – 220V ± 10%, 50 – 60Hz
|-
| Total power:|| <1,000 W
|-
| Operating temperature:|| 0 – 45 °C
|-
| Humidity:|| 5 – 95%
|-
| Minimum character size:|| 2mm Chinese character alphanumeric 1mm
|-
| Corresponding data format:|| BMP, PLT, DST, DXF, and AI
|-
| Operating system:|| stepper motor
|-
| Cooling system:|| water-cooled
|-
| Control system:|| Leetro controller + Lasercut 3
|-
| Weight:|| 170kg
|-
|}

== Laser Cutter instructions ==

[[Laser Cutter/Instructions|Laser Cutter Instructions]]

==Rules==
;'''1) Never leave the laser cutter running unattended*'''
:You should always be next to the Laser Cutter and paying attention to it while the laser is active, ''I cannot state how important it is to monitor the laser cutter whilst it is in use, it knows when you're not watching and will burst into flames the second you turn your back.'' If you have to leave the laser cutter unattended, use the pause button. '''In case of fire''': use the fire blanket first if that doesn't work use the CO2 extinguisher by the laser cutter and/or raise the fire alarm.

;'''2) If the Laser Cutter breaks or behaves abnormally, put it Out of Order and post to the mailing list'''
:If the laser cutter starts behaving weirdly, doesn't cut correctly with the correct settings, makes <strike>interesting</strike> worrying noises, any of the ancillary machines (cooler/extractor/air assist) are not working properly or if there has been a fire, place it out of order and post to Slack detailing what went wrong. If you don't use slack, get someone else to post for you.

;'''3) Do not use if you haven't had training'''
A trained member can do a job for another person as long as the trained member is the one using the laser cutter.

;'''4) You must be a member of Norwich Hackspace to use the laser cutter'''
:The Laser Cutter is a machine owned and operated by Norwich Hackspace, therefore you must be a member to use it. If you were a trained member and your membership payments have lapsed, access will automatically be revoked until you become a member again. Having a trained member cut a job for a non-member is perfectly fine.

;'''5) Always pay for your usage'''
:The Laser Cutter costs £5/hour to use. You only have to pay for the time that the laser is active for, not any setup or preparation time. All money goes towards maintenance and buying consumables like mirrors, lenses and new laser tubes. If there is not enough money to cover the cost of consumables when something needs replacing due to people using the Laser Cutter without paying, they simply won't be bought, rendering the Laser Cutter out of order until we find another way of raising money to cover the costs.

;'''6) Only cut approved materials of an acceptable thickness, never cut materials on the banned list or materials that are too thick.*'''
:If you would like to cut a material that is not on the Approved List, contact one of the maintainers, we will do some research and testing (or instruct you to do the testing) to see if the materials is safe to laser cut, if it is, it will be added to the Approved List. Acceptable thicknesses are shown on the cutting parameters page.

;'''7) Log all jobs correctly in the logbook - not currently used'''
:Currently, the logbook is the only way the maintainers can view the status of the cutter and how it's performing on a day-to-day basis. It is vital that you complete this for each job done with any power settings used; you can add multiple jobs together into a single log if they used the same settings, material and were all successful. A link to the logbook is on the desktop, on the bookmarks bar or [ here].

;'''8) Do not disable any of the ancillary components such as the air assist, extractor or cooler'''
:These all have their purpose in protecting the Laser Cutter and making it work correctly, please do not disable any of these for any reason whatsoever.

;'''9) Don't place cutting waste in the scrap bins'''
: The scrap bins are only for usable bits of material you don't want any more. '''A usable bit of material is anything 10cm2 or larger without any cuts or engraving on it'''. Please snap any unusable bits off to make it as small as possible. Cutting waste is fully recyclable and can be placed in any bin in the hackspace, PLEASE DO NOT PUT IT IN THE SCRAPS BIN!

'''Violation of these rules will result in either a verbal warning, a written warning, being made to redo the training, a temporary ban or in the most extreme cases a permanent ban issues by the maintainers. We will try and be as fair as possible and we really don't want to punish people and prevent them from using the machine, we'd much rather educate about the correct way to use it. However, this is not an excuse for rules ignorance.'''

'''*Violation of rules 1 or 3 (or excessive violation of rule 6) will result in an immediate ban without warning.'''

'''All bans will be made public and be able to be appealed against.'''

==Software==
* LaserCut 5.3
* [https://xoihazard.com/tools/halftone/ Halftone vector generator] - Takes a picture and converts it into a representation of the image using ploygons. Its a cool way to get around the lack of greyscale functionality

==Where to get supplies/consumables/materials==
* [http://www.hamaracrylic.co.uk/hamar_acrylic_products.aspx Hamar] - 16A Bidder Street London, E16 4ST. 8am-5pm Mon-Fri
* [https://hobarts.com/sheet-materials_124/ Hobarts] - mail order
* [http://kitronic.co.uk Kitronic] - mail order, good ply
* [http://www.blueprintmodel.co.uk/ Bluprint models] Arch 258, Paradise Row, Bethnal Green, London. E2 9LE - On Cambridge Heath Road - & mail order - good for MDF, their perspex is shit
* [http://www.mdfcuttosize.com/ MDF Cut to Size] - 413 Wick Lane, Bow, London, E3 2JG - Pay for the size you want cut
* [http://www.thenaturalworkshop.co.uk/ The Natural Workshop (Website)] - [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/thenaturalworkshop/ The Natural Workshop (eBay)]- mail order
* [https://www.jennortimber.co.uk/products/plywood Jennor Timber], Lockfield Avenue, Enfield EN3 7QL, or 13 Braintree Rd, Ruislip HA4 0EJ. Laser grade birch ply. Not listed on their website, but they do it - it's in their catalogue, and they know their stuff. Give them a call.

==List of allowed and banned materials ==
===Allowed===
====Woods====
* Laser-grade plywood
** Birch ply (max 9mm)
** Poplar ply (max 9mm)
* Balsa wood
* Paper (cutting only)
* Card/Cardboard (cutting only) [[tips on lasercutting card]]

====Plastics====
* Thin Polypropylene sheet (<1mm)
* Acrylic (max 10mm)
* [[tips on lasercutting foam | Foamcore]] (non-PVC variety)
* Correx (Genuine non PVC)
* Depron foam (Fire risk, must be closely monitored)
* EVA Foam (if real)
* Delrin (max 8mm)

====Textiles====
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton (Not plastic-impregnated fabric)
* Polar Fleece

====For engraving only====
* Stone (Engrave only)
* Ceramic tile (Engrave only)
* Non-resinous wood IE hardwood (Engrave only)
* Glass (Engrave only)
* Anodized Aluminium (Engrave only)

===Explicitly banned===

You should only be cutting materials on the Allowed list.

If you want to cut a material which is not on this list, contact one of the maintainers and get them to OK it first.

* Food (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Body parts
* Plastics containing PVC (laser contamination, emissions)
* Plastics containing ABS (laser contamination, fire risk, cyanide emission)
* Fibreglass (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Circuit boards (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Polycarbonate (laser contamination, fire risk)
* All metal (except engraving anodized aluminium)
* Polystyrene (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Polypropylene (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* HDPE (high-density polyethylene or polyethylene) (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Carbon fibre (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Shuttering ply (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Latex (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)

== Cutting Parameters ==
'''For list of material settings, see [[A2_Greyfin_Laser_Cutter_Materials_Information|Cutting Parameters]].

== Trainers and maintainers ==

If you have questions or problems with the laser cutter, please speak to one of these people:

* T Gomi
* Nicholas W
* Peter H

== Inducted Members ==

These members have attended an induction (if you're name is not on the list arrange an induction before using)

==Technical Specs==
* Glass laser tube (80W rated power) - recommended max tube current 22mA
* "MYJG-80R" laser power supply
* Leetro [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/20.html MPC6515C] (v2.0) motion controller
* LaserCut 5.3 software.
* [http://www.teyuchiller.com/Products/ChillerCW52001400Wco.html S&A CW-5200] water chiller

[[Category:Tools for use on wood]]
[[Category:Tools for use on plastic]]

Laser software tools

2021-07-13T08:56:28Z

Toby Catlin:

=Laser Software=
==Lightburn==
We now use lightburn instead of LaserCut
https://lightburnsoftware.com/pages/tutorials

==Boxes==
* https://www.makercase.com/ - MakerCase is a web-based application for designing boxes or project cases for laser cutters and CNC routers.
* https://www.festi.info/boxes.py/ - Boxes.py is an Open Source box generator written in Python.
* https://www.templatemaker.nl/en/ - Create custom sized papercraft and packaging templates

== Advanced Jointing==
* https://www.instructables.com/Joinery-Joints-for-Laser-Cut-Assemblies/
* https://clementzheng.github.io/joinery/

==Nesting==
* https://deepnest.io/
* https://svgnest.com/

Laser software tools

2021-07-13T08:56:15Z

Toby Catlin: /* Boxes */

=Laser Software=
==Lightburn==
We now use lightburn instead of LaserCut
https://lightburnsoftware.com/pages/tutorials

==Boxes==
* https://www.makercase.com/ - MakerCase is a web-based application for designing boxes or project cases for laser cutters and CNC routers.
* https://www.festi.info/boxes.py/ - Boxes.py is an Open Source box generator written in Python.
* https://www.templatemaker.nl/en/ - Create custom sized papercraft and packaging templates

== Advanced Jointing==
https://www.instructables.com/Joinery-Joints-for-Laser-Cut-Assemblies/
https://clementzheng.github.io/joinery/

==Nesting==
https://deepnest.io/
https://svgnest.com/

Laser software tools

2021-07-13T08:55:33Z

Toby Catlin: Created page with "=Laser Software= ==Lightburn== We now use lightburn instead of LaserCut https://lightburnsoftware.com/pages/tutorials ==Boxes== https://www.makercase.com/ MakerCase is a web-..."

=Laser Software=
==Lightburn==
We now use lightburn instead of LaserCut
https://lightburnsoftware.com/pages/tutorials

==Boxes==
https://www.makercase.com/
MakerCase is a web-based application for designing boxes or project cases for laser cutters and CNC routers.

https://www.festi.info/boxes.py/
Boxes.py is an Open Source box generator written in Python.

https://www.templatemaker.nl/en/
Create custom sized papercraft and packaging templates

== Advanced Jointing==
https://www.instructables.com/Joinery-Joints-for-Laser-Cut-Assemblies/
https://clementzheng.github.io/joinery/

==Nesting==
https://deepnest.io/
https://svgnest.com/

Laser room

2021-07-13T08:50:35Z

Toby Catlin: /* extras */

{{CatDevelop}}

== Maintainer - Peter @Peter_H==

==Training Requirements==
Whilst all use of Tools and Equipment is at your own risk each one will have a colour code denoting how much knowledge is required to operated it

* '''RED''' - You must be inducted by the maintainer / trainer and signed off as being competent
* '''ORANGE''' - You must read all the provided information and assess yourself as being competent of using the tool safely, if in doubt ask the area maintainer or other member for help
* '''GREEN''' - Fill your boots
 

===The Laser Room contains===
* [[lasercutter PC]]
* [[Greyfin A2 laser cutter]]
* [[K40 laser cutter]]
* [[CNC Mill]]

===extras===
Wood stain, Shelf above blue table

[[Laser software tools]]

=== To do list===
[[Laser Room to do list]]

Belt Grinder 2x72

2021-06-25T11:42:14Z

Toby Catlin: Created page with "= Belt grinder 2 x 72 = Ideal for fast metal removal to shape knives and other parts === Kit === Flat pack kit from Fransham forge https://www.forged-ironmongery.co.uk/produc..."

Harrison M250 lathe

2021-06-25T11:38:35Z

Toby Catlin:

<div id="mw-content-text" lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr"><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: center; width: 60% margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; font-size: 1.3em; border: 2px solid red;">
'''RED''' equipment: Do not use without specific training.
 </div> 

[[File:Harrison lathe.png|thumb|harrison lathe]]

= Harrison M250 lathe =

=== Induction Required ===

See Alan Scrase

=== Ownership ===

Owned by the Hackspace

==PPE==
The lathe is fairly safe until it isn't. It has extreme power and does not care about you.

==== Clothing ====

# Long hair tied back and covered (see lathe scalping on youtube)
# No loose clothing (see lathe strangulation)
# No gloves (see lathe skin degloving)
# No Jewellery – necklaces, rings, bracelets
# Safety glasses - One metal chip will mess up your eye
# Consider Ear defenders
# Stout footwear

Link to manual https://www.dropbox.com/s/sqoq5urmsyl0gsx/Harrison_m250.pdf?dl=0

=== Instructions ===
* [[Lathe Getting Started]]
* [[Basic Controls]]
* [[Change tool]]
* [[Cut thread]]
* [[Measuring movement]

=== Tool holder ==
* Dickson (aka T2 Quick Change Tool Post) http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page13.html
* Max tool height : 28mm (confirm this)

=== Tail stock ===
* morse taper 3 (MT3)

=== Tooling Available ==
* Various cutting tools - both HSS and Carbide tipped
* Parting off tool
* Jacobs chuck
* Dead centres

=== Tooling wishlist ==
* Knurling tool - There should be one I will confirm - Alan 15/10/20

Harrison M250 lathe

2021-06-25T11:37:33Z

Toby Catlin:

<div id="mw-content-text" lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr"><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: center; width: 60% margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; font-size: 1.3em; border: 2px solid red;">
'''RED''' equipment: Do not use without specific training.
 </div> 

[[File:Harrison lathe.png|thumb|harrison lathe]]

* Harrison M250 lathe

=== Induction Required ===

See Alan Scrase

=== Ownership ===

Owned by the Hackspace

==PPE==
The lathe is fairly safe until it isn't. It has extreme power and does not care about you.

==== Clothing ====

# Long hair tied back and covered (see lathe scalping on youtube)
# No loose clothing (see lathe strangulation)
# No gloves (see lathe skin degloving)
# No Jewellery – necklaces, rings, bracelets
# Safety glasses - One metal chip will mess up your eye
# Consider Ear defenders
# Stout footwear

Link to manual https://www.dropbox.com/s/sqoq5urmsyl0gsx/Harrison_m250.pdf?dl=0

=== Instructions ===
* [[Lathe Getting Started]]
* [[Basic Controls]]
* [[Change tool]]
* [[Cut thread]]
* [[Measuring movement]

=== Tool holder ==
* Dickson (aka T2 Quick Change Tool Post) http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page13.html
* Max tool height : 28mm (confirm this)

=== Tail stock ===
* morse taper 3 (MT3)

=== Tooling Available ==
* Various cutting tools - both HSS and Carbide tipped
* Parting off tool
* Jacobs chuck
* Dead centres

=== Tooling wishlist ==
* Knurling tool - There should be one I will confirm - Alan 15/10/20

Metal Workshop

2021-06-25T11:29:35Z

Toby Catlin: /* Equipment List */

[[Category:Area]]

'''Workshop now has an alarm system. Contact Toby for further details'''

==Maintainer: Toby==

==Training Requirements==
Whilst all use of Tools and Equipment is at your own risk each one will have a colour code denoting how much knowledge is required to operated it

* '''RED''' - You must be inducted by the maintainer / trainer and signed off as being competent
* '''ORANGE''' - You must read all the provided information and assess yourself as being competent of using the tool safely, if in doubt ask the area maintainer or other member for help
* '''GREEN''' - Fill your boots
 
==Equipment List==
* [[Tig Welder]] - RED
* Welder Mig - RED
* Welder Arc - RED 
*
* [[Cube Forge]] - RED
* [[Pot Furnace]] - RED 
*
* [[Elliot Pillar Drill]] - RED
* [[Harrison M250 lathe]] - RED
* [[Milling Machine]] - RED 
*
* [[TCT Chop saw]] - RED
* [[Blue Air Compressor]] - GREEN
* [[Pedestal grinder]] - RED
* [[Belt Grinder 2x72]] - GREEN
* Drilling table - RED 
*
* Plasma Cutter (in progress)
[[:Category:Equipment]]

==Hand Tools==
* Tap and Die set (for Threading)

==To do List==
[[Metal workshop improvements mk1]]

Harrison M250 lathe

2021-06-24T10:09:32Z

Toby Catlin:

<div id="mw-content-text" lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr"><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: center; width: 60% margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; font-size: 1.3em; border: 2px solid red;">
'''RED''' equipment: Do not use without specific training.
 </div> 

[[File:Harrison lathe.png|thumb|harrison lathe]]

* Harrison M250 lathe

=== Induction Required ===

See Alan Scrase

=== Ownership ===

Owned by the Hackspace

==PPE==
The lathe is fairly safe until it isn't. It has extreme power and does not care about you.

==== Clothing ====

# Long hair tied back and covered (see lathe scalping on youtube)
# No loose clothing (see lathe strangulation)
# No gloves (see lathe skin degloving)
# No Jewellery – necklaces, rings, bracelets
# Safety glasses - One metal chip will mess up your eye
# Consider Ear defenders
# Stout footwear

Link to manual https://www.dropbox.com/s/sqoq5urmsyl0gsx/Harrison_m250.pdf?dl=0

=== Tool holder ==
* Whats the model?
I think: T1 quick change
* Max tool height? 22mm

=== Tail stock ===
* takes morse taper 3 (MT3)

=== Tooling Available ==
* Various cutting tools - both HSS and Carbide tipped
* Parting off tool
* Jacobs chuck
* Dead centres

=== Tooling wishlist ==
* Knurling tool - There should be one I will confirm - Alan 15/10/20

Harrison M250 lathe

2021-06-24T10:01:52Z

Toby Catlin: /* = Tooling Available */

<div id="mw-content-text" lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr"><div style="font-weight: bold; text-align: center; width: 60% margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; font-size: 1.3em; border: 2px solid red;">
'''RED''' equipment: Do not use without specific training.
 </div> 

[[File:Harrison lathe.png|thumb|harrison lathe]]

* Harrison M250 lathe

=== Induction Required ===

See Alan Scrase

=== Ownership ===

Owned by the Hackspace

==PPE==

1. Clothing – no loose clothing – no gloves or use skin tight gloves 

2. No Jewellery – necklaces, rings, bracelets 

3. Safety glasses 

4. Consider Ear defenders 

5. Stout footwear 

Link to manual https://www.dropbox.com/s/sqoq5urmsyl0gsx/Harrison_m250.pdf?dl=0

=== Tool holder ==
* Whats the model?
I think: T1 quick change
* Max tool height? 22mm

=== Tail stock ===
* takes morse taper 3 (MT3)

=== Tooling Available ==
* Various cutting tools - both HSS and Carbide tipped
* Parting off tool
* Jacobs chuck
* Dead centres

=== Tooling wishlist ==
* Knurling tool - There should be one I will confirm - Alan 15/10/20

Car Dash Stack

2021-06-07T22:06:57Z

Toby Catlin:

https://oshwlab.com/tobycatlin/speedo-gauge

Chips

* M5M5256DFP- is 262,144-bit CMOS static RAMs
* MC68HC11A1CFN3 - Motorola microcontroller

Car Dash Stack

2021-06-07T21:56:30Z

Toby Catlin: Created page with "M5M5256DFP- is 262,144-bit CMOS static RAMs"

M5M5256DFP- is 262,144-bit CMOS static RAMs

Main Page

2021-06-07T21:55:05Z

Toby Catlin: /* Personal */

=Norwich Hackspace=

'''Welcome new members please read the [[Induction]]'''



[[File:Hackspace Covid Access.png|600px|Covid access]] -->

'''NH Covid Revised Protocol post-Lockdown

Re-instatement Monday meetings 
Effective from 12 April 2021''' 

We have adjusted the [[guidelines]] in the light of the latest lockdown release. Please read via the link 

* Any questions please contact Admin Team @mario, @alan_scrase @james_m

== Hackspace subareas ==
* [[Workshop]]
* [[Metal Workshop]]
* [[Laser room]]
* [[3D print Room]]
* [[HS main room]]
* [[Electronics bench]]
* [[Office]]
* [[Tuck & Tech Shop]]
* [[Slack]]

== Projects ==
===Hackspace===
* [[Metal workshop improvements mk1]]
* [[Lion house decorating]]
* [[Arcade machine]]
* [[In-house Retro Arcade Game Cabinet]]

===Personal===
* [[Plasma CNC]]
* [[Macro Keypad]]
* [[Car Dash Stack]]

== Permanent Store of Information ==
* [[link to Dropbox Members Norwich Hackspace]]
* [[list of how-to guides]]
* [[list of software guides]]
* [[how to edit this wiki]]
* [[suppliers for materials]]
* [[useful or interesting links]]
* [[list of discussion or chat pages]]

== Policies ==

Place for general policies 

[[Hackspace Insurance policies]] 

[[New member guides]] 

== Proposals ==
* [[Proposals and decision making - open]]
* [[Proposals and decision making - closed]]

== MediaWiki Getting started ==
* Please [[READ ME]] before making changes
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list]
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ]

Electronics bench

2021-05-27T09:47:34Z

Toby Catlin: Created page with "== Equipment == * Soldering iron * Desolder sucker * oscilliscope"

== Equipment ==
* Soldering iron
* Desolder sucker
* oscilliscope

Main Page

2021-05-27T09:45:04Z

Toby Catlin: /* Hackspace subareas */

=Norwich Hackspace=

'''Welcome new members please read the [[Induction]]'''



[[File:Hackspace Covid Access.png|600px|Covid access]] -->

'''NH Covid Revised Protocol post-Lockdown

Re-instatement Monday meetings 
Effective from 12 April 2021''' 

We have adjusted the [[guidelines]] in the light of the latest lockdown release. Please read via the link 

* Any questions please contact Admin Team @mario, @alan_scrase @james_m

== Hackspace subareas ==
* [[Workshop]]
* [[Metal Workshop]]
* [[Laser room]]
* [[3D print Room]]
* [[HS main room]]
* [[Electronics bench]]
* [[Office]]
* [[Tuck & Tech Shop]]
* [[Slack]]

== Projects ==
===Hackspace===
* [[Metal workshop improvements mk1]]
* [[Lion house decorating]]
* [[Arcade machine]]
* [[In-house Retro Arcade Game Cabinet]]

===Personal===
* [[Plasma CNC]]
* [[Macro Keypad]]

== Permanent Store of Information ==
* [[list of how-to guides]]
* [[list of software guides]]
* [[how to edit this wiki]]
* [[suppliers for materials]]
* [[useful or interesting links]]
* [[list of discussion or chat pages]]

== Policies ==

Place for general policies 

[[Hackspace Insurance policies]] 

[[New member guides]] 

== Proposals ==
* [[Proposals and decision making - open]]
* [[Proposals and decision making - closed]]

== MediaWiki Getting started ==
* Please [[READ ME]] before making changes
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list]
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ]

08/20

2021-04-26T12:13:14Z

Toby Catlin: /* What is being asked for */

==Title==
V-slot Library

==Proposer==
Toby
==Date proposed==
26 april 21
==Date for Decision==

Usually one week after posting

==Cost==
£200 or more depending on demand

==What is being asked for==
Purchase a stock of various sizes of aluminium v-slot extrusion and the associations fixings/accessories/etc

Please make suggestions of products and add +1 votes to existing product you would like so we can gauge demand

* Single 2020: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283518793272
* 2040 : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254741843200
* plates: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194042798155
* wheel: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223220148774

Suppliers
* ooznest https://ooznest.co.uk/product/clearance-v-slot-linear-rail-20x40mm/

This is an example of the products and will find a good supplier.

==Why/how this will be good to have==
V-slot extrusion is used in many stepper based machines we use in the HS. The ender 3d printers use it. With standardised fixings its like a big mechano set for build frames for all sorts of projects.
Projects like barnys pen plotter use v-slot.

Slack Channel
==Who is for it==
Karl

==Comments==

==Outcome==

08/20

2021-04-26T11:56:18Z

Toby Catlin:

==Title==
V-slot Library

==Proposer==
Toby
==Date proposed==
26 april 21
==Date for Decision==

Usually one week after posting

==Cost==
£200 or more depending on demand

==What is being asked for==
Purchase a stock of various sizes of aluminium v-slot extrusion and the associations fixings/accessories/etc

Please make suggestions of products and add +1 votes to existing product you would like so we can gauge demand

* Single 2020: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283518793272
* 2040 : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254741843200
* plates: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194042798155
* wheel: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223220148774

This is an example of the products and will find a good supplier.

==Why/how this will be good to have==
V-slot extrusion is used in many stepper based machines we use in the HS. The ender 3d printers use it. With standardised fixings its like a big mechano set for build frames for all sorts of projects.
Projects like barnys pen plotter use v-slot.

Slack Channel
==Who is for it==
Karl

==Comments==

==Outcome==

Proposals and decision making - open

2021-04-26T11:46:32Z

Toby Catlin:

This page was heavily influenced by Bristol wiki - Alan Scrase 25/9/20 

===== Proposals =====

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Date !!Proposal no.!! Title !! Proposer !! Status
|-
| 25/09/20 ||01/20 || [[Use this proposal form for future decisions]] || Alan || Provisional Approval
|-
| Date || [[02/20]] || Click cell to the left for Example || Proposer || ...
|-
| 29/09/20 || [[03/20]] || Redecoration || Dan R || Approved- waiting to start
|-
| 10/10/20 || [[04/20]] || Extending the Metal Space || Alan et al || Approved - ongoing
|-
| 19/10/20 || [[05/20]] || Hackspace structure and management || Marion || Open
|-
| 25/11/20 ||[[06/20]]|| [[Proposal_6|Replacement of D7 and curing setup]] || 3D Printing Team|| Approved - commissioning
|-
| 27/01/21 ||[[07/20]]|| Lockdown Challenge || Brian || Approved - launch 1 Feb
|-
| 26/04/21 ||[[08/20]]|| VSlot Library || Toby || DRAFT
|-
| Date || [[09/20]]|| Title || Proposer || Status
|-}
 
to add a proposal please edit the next available '''Proposal no.'''

===== '''DRAFT''' Hackspace Proposals '''DRAFT'''=====
*N.B. If you have paid for goods or services on behalf of the Hackspace, send a PDF of the receipt (and guarantee) to the [[Admin team]]. You can claim the money by asking Marion or the admin team. 
 
If you need help making a proposal: ask the [[Lead]] of the area (if appropriate), Admin Team, [[core member]] or another member

===== Aims and Objectives =====
Hackspace proposals are a method to put forward ideas that would impact on the Hackspace and its members - e.g. purchases, team projects, additional tools and equipment, furnishing the space.

Proposals should include:
* Name of proposer
* Date proposed
* Title of proposal
* Cost including delivery and on going costs,consumables etc
* A budget if applicable and how funded (e.g. Hackspace, pledge, grant, self funded )
* Explain what your proposal is about (your chance to sell the story)
* Why and how this would be good for the Hackspace/who would benefit
* State what they depend on in terms of resources and who will undertake any work needed
* Any other implications or impacts such as fumes, safety, space, expertise needed to set-up and maintain
* State what they depend on in terms of resources and who will undertake any work needed

===== Types of proposal =====
(to be discussed at special meeting 13 October 2020)

'''General decisions'''

- Day-to-day hackspace decision eg something that affects members but is minor in nature : ''Proposer plus member of Admin Team to approve. Lead maintainer should be consulted if possible''

- General hackspace decision eg something that affects all members: ''Requires Wiki proposal (see below) and general member agreement with at least a week timescale and no significant objections. Lead maintainer should be consulted if possible''

- Major hackspace decision eg something that affects all members and is significant in impact eg policies, moves, major changes: ''Requires Wiki proposal (see below) General membership consulted. Core Team makes the decision. Timescale appropriate to issue
''

'''Purchasing decisions'''

- H&S or proposal under £50 eg consumables or general supplies : ''Proposer plus member of Admin Team to approve''

- Small purchase: total cost up to £100. ''Requires Wiki proposal (see below and general member agreement with at least a week timescale and no significant objection. Lead maintainer or core team member to be consulted if possible''

- Medium purchase: total cost £100-£500. ''Requires Wiki proposal (see below) discussion and at least two weeks timescale or until 10 members agree and no significant objection. Lead maintainer or core team member to be consulted''

- Large purchase: total cost >£600. ''Requires Wiki proposal discussion and at least two weeks timescale or until 10 members agree and no significant objection. Lead maintainer or core team member to be consulted''

- Emergency decision : a quick decision can be made by proposer and Admin Team if a proposal has been agreed in principle and an item has become available eg Gumtree purchase that would be missed otherwise. ''Lead maintainer input if possible in time-frame''

'''''In the case of dispute or indecision, the Core Team have final say (at least 5 members) and may call a meeting if necessary'''''

===== Principles of decision-making =====

• Decisions to be made in #decision-making channel in Slack and raised and recorded in the Wiki (extended discussion in appropriate channel)

• Any member can join #decision-making but those that choose not to effectively leave Hackspace decisions to those that do. It is possible to join and leave the channel depending on interest or capacity at the time.

• All members have the chance to contribute or comment within the time-scale

• Enough time to comment. Interested members should check in to #decision-making at least once a week

• A strong (reasoned) objection can carry more weight than several average agreements and vice versa

• The deadline provides the end point - a member of the Admin team will summerise and define actions from then on

• Core members and Lead Maintainers have final say in case of dispute or indecision

===== How to make a proposal =====
- Write up the proposal on this Wiki. Confused as to how? Then follow this [[proposal-tutorial|step by step tutorial!]]
- Post to #decision-making on Slack.
- Post a wiki link to your proposal on Slack
- If your proposal is approved, proceed with the purchase or follow actions as agreed.

===== Funding =====
Proposals requiring funds.

Dependent on the scope and remit of certain proposals it may be appropriate for full or partial funding by Hackspace. Proposals should include an estimated budget ie money and/or other resources (backed by quotations, etc where appropriate) and a funding model.

Funding models may include:
* fully funded by Hackspace
* Pledge funded with partial split between Hackspace and supportive member backing
* fully member supported

Go back [[https://wiki.norwichhackspace.org/index.php?title=Main_Page#Proposals| back to proposals]] 
go to [[Main_Page |main page]] 
go to [[Main_Page#Proposals| proposals]]

Pedestal grinder

2021-03-30T20:03:43Z

Toby Catlin: Created page with "Ferrous metals only Don't leave grooves in the wheel. Wiggle it just a little bit"

Ferrous metals only

Don't leave grooves in the wheel. Wiggle it just a little bit

Metal Workshop

2021-03-30T20:03:00Z

Toby Catlin: /* Equipment List */

[[Category:Area]]

'''Workshop now has an alarm system. Contact Toby for further details'''

==Maintainer: Toby==

==Training Requirements==
Whilst all use of Tools and Equipment is at your own risk each one will have a colour code denoting how much knowledge is required to operated it

* '''RED''' - You must be inducted by the maintainer / trainer and signed off as being competent
* '''ORANGE''' - You must read all the provided information and assess yourself as being competent of using the tool safely, if in doubt ask the area maintainer or other member for help
* '''GREEN''' - Fill your boots
 
==Equipment List==
* [[Tig Welder]] - RED
* Welder Mig - RED
* Welder Arc - RED 
*
* [[Cube Forge]] - RED
* [[Pot Furnace]] - RED 
*
* [[Elliot Pillar Drill]] - RED
* [[Harrison M250 lathe]] - RED
* [[Milling Machine]] - RED 
*
* [[TCT Chop saw]] - RED
* [[Blue Air Compressor]] - GREEN
* [[Pedestal grinder]] - RED
* Drilling table - RED 
*
* Plasma Cutter (in progress)
[[:Category:Equipment]]

==Hand Tools==
* Tap and Die set (for Threading)

==To do List==
[[Metal workshop improvements mk1]]

Metal Workshop

2021-03-30T20:02:26Z

Toby Catlin: /* Equipment List */

[[Category:Area]]

'''Workshop now has an alarm system. Contact Toby for further details'''

==Maintainer: Toby==

==Training Requirements==
Whilst all use of Tools and Equipment is at your own risk each one will have a colour code denoting how much knowledge is required to operated it

* '''RED''' - You must be inducted by the maintainer / trainer and signed off as being competent
* '''ORANGE''' - You must read all the provided information and assess yourself as being competent of using the tool safely, if in doubt ask the area maintainer or other member for help
* '''GREEN''' - Fill your boots
 
==Equipment List==
* [[Tig Welder]] - RED
* Welder Mig - RED
* Welder Arc - RED 
*
* [[Cube Forge]] - RED
* [[Pot Furnace]] - RED 
*
* [[Elliot Pillar Drill]] - RED
* [[Harrison M250 lathe]] - RED
* [[Milling Machine]] - RED 
*
* [[TCT Chop saw]] - RED
* [[Blue Air Compressor]] - GREEN
* Pedestal grinder - RED
* Drilling table - RED 
*
* Plasma Cutter (in progress)
[[:Category:Equipment]]

==Hand Tools==
* Tap and Die set (for Threading)

==To do List==
[[Metal workshop improvements mk1]]

Greyfin A2 laser cutter

2021-03-21T16:28:14Z

Toby Catlin: /* Tech specs */

== DRAFT copied from LHS wiki ==
[[temporary lasercutter booking page]]

==Training==

You must not use the laser cutter without being trained. The laser cutter is unlikely to hurt you, but you can easily hurt '''it''' without training. For more information about laser cutter training, see the [[Lasercutter Training]] page.

==Costs==

* Training - Free
* Usage - £5/hour, £1/10minutes
* Consumables - Bring your own and/or use what is in the off cuts bin or purchase from the HS stock via iZettle, but always ensure (rather than assume) it's [[Laser_Cutter/Instructions#Chlorine_Testing_and_Material_Safety|laser safe]].

==Tech specs==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Spec !! Value
|-
| Laser power: || 60W Co2 laser tube
|-
| Maximum cutting area: || 600 x 400mm
|-
| Body dimensions:|| 1,360 x 880 x 1,070mm
|-
| Repeatability:|| ± 0.05mm
|-
| Power source:|| AC 110 – 220V ± 10%, 50 – 60Hz
|-
| Total power:|| <1,000 W
|-
| Operating temperature:|| 0 – 45 °C
|-
| Humidity:|| 5 – 95%
|-
| Minimum character size:|| 2mm Chinese character alphanumeric 1mm
|-
| Corresponding data format:|| BMP, PLT, DST, DXF, and AI
|-
| Operating system:|| stepper motor
|-
| Cooling system:|| water-cooled
|-
| Control system:|| Leetro controller + Lasercut 3
|-
| Weight:|| 170kg
|-
|}

== Laser Cutter instructions ==

[[Laser Cutter/Instructions|Laser Cutter Instructions]]

==Rules==
;'''1) Never leave the laser cutter running unattended*'''
:You should always be next to the Laser Cutter and paying attention to it while the laser is active, ''I cannot state how important it is to monitor the laser cutter whilst it is in use, it knows when you're not watching and will burst into flames the second you turn your back.'' If you have to leave the laser cutter unattended, use the pause button. '''In case of fire''': use the fire blanket first if that doesn't work use the CO2 extinguisher by the laser cutter and/or raise the fire alarm.

;'''2) If the Laser Cutter breaks or behaves abnormally, put it Out of Order and post to the mailing list'''
:If the laser cutter starts behaving weirdly, doesn't cut correctly with the correct settings, makes <strike>interesting</strike> worrying noises, any of the ancillary machines (cooler/extractor/air assist) are not working properly or if there has been a fire, place it out of order and post to Slack detailing what went wrong. If you don't use slack, get someone else to post for you.

;'''3) Do not use if you haven't had training'''
A trained member can do a job for another person as long as the trained member is the one using the laser cutter.

;'''4) You must be a member of Norwich Hackspace to use the laser cutter'''
:The Laser Cutter is a machine owned and operated by Norwich Hackspace, therefore you must be a member to use it. If you were a trained member and your membership payments have lapsed, access will automatically be revoked until you become a member again. Having a trained member cut a job for a non-member is perfectly fine.

;'''5) Always pay for your usage'''
:The Laser Cutter costs £5/hour to use. You only have to pay for the time that the laser is active for, not any setup or preparation time. All money goes towards maintenance and buying consumables like mirrors, lenses and new laser tubes. If there is not enough money to cover the cost of consumables when something needs replacing due to people using the Laser Cutter without paying, they simply won't be bought, rendering the Laser Cutter out of order until we find another way of raising money to cover the costs.

;'''6) Only cut approved materials of an acceptable thickness, never cut materials on the banned list or materials that are too thick.*'''
:If you would like to cut a material that is not on the Approved List, contact one of the maintainers, we will do some research and testing (or instruct you to do the testing) to see if the materials is safe to laser cut, if it is, it will be added to the Approved List. Acceptable thicknesses are shown on the cutting parameters page.

;'''7) Log all jobs correctly in the logbook - not currently used'''
:Currently, the logbook is the only way the maintainers can view the status of the cutter and how it's performing on a day-to-day basis. It is vital that you complete this for each job done with any power settings used; you can add multiple jobs together into a single log if they used the same settings, material and were all successful. A link to the logbook is on the desktop, on the bookmarks bar or [ here].

;'''8) Do not disable any of the ancillary components such as the air assist, extractor or cooler'''
:These all have their purpose in protecting the Laser Cutter and making it work correctly, please do not disable any of these for any reason whatsoever.

;'''9) Don't place cutting waste in the scrap bins'''
: The scrap bins are only for usable bits of material you don't want any more. '''A usable bit of material is anything 10cm2 or larger without any cuts or engraving on it'''. Please snap any unusable bits off to make it as small as possible. Cutting waste is fully recyclable and can be placed in any bin in the hackspace, PLEASE DO NOT PUT IT IN THE SCRAPS BIN!

'''Violation of these rules will result in either a verbal warning, a written warning, being made to redo the training, a temporary ban or in the most extreme cases a permanent ban issues by the maintainers. We will try and be as fair as possible and we really don't want to punish people and prevent them from using the machine, we'd much rather educate about the correct way to use it. However, this is not an excuse for rules ignorance.'''

'''*Violation of rules 1 or 3 (or excessive violation of rule 6) will result in an immediate ban without warning.'''

'''All bans will be made public and be able to be appealed against.'''

==Software==
* LaserCut 5.3
* [https://xoihazard.com/tools/halftone/ Halftone vector generator] - Takes a picture and converts it into a representation of the image using ploygons. Its a cool way to get around the lack of greyscale functionality

==Where to get supplies/consumables/materials==
* [http://www.hamaracrylic.co.uk/hamar_acrylic_products.aspx Hamar] - 16A Bidder Street London, E16 4ST. 8am-5pm Mon-Fri
* [https://hobarts.com/sheet-materials_124/ Hobarts] - mail order
* [http://kitronic.co.uk Kitronic] - mail order, good ply
* [http://www.blueprintmodel.co.uk/ Bluprint models] Arch 258, Paradise Row, Bethnal Green, London. E2 9LE - On Cambridge Heath Road - & mail order - good for MDF, their perspex is shit
* [http://www.mdfcuttosize.com/ MDF Cut to Size] - 413 Wick Lane, Bow, London, E3 2JG - Pay for the size you want cut
* [http://www.thenaturalworkshop.co.uk/ The Natural Workshop (Website)] - [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/thenaturalworkshop/ The Natural Workshop (eBay)]- mail order
* [https://www.jennortimber.co.uk/products/plywood Jennor Timber], Lockfield Avenue, Enfield EN3 7QL, or 13 Braintree Rd, Ruislip HA4 0EJ. Laser grade birch ply. Not listed on their website, but they do it - it's in their catalogue, and they know their stuff. Give them a call.

==List of allowed and banned materials ==
===Allowed===
====Woods====
* Laser-grade plywood
** Birch ply (max 9mm)
** Poplar ply (max 9mm)
* Balsa wood
* Paper (cutting only)
* Card/Cardboard (cutting only) [[tips on lasercutting card]]

====Plastics====
* Thin Polypropylene sheet (<1mm)
* Acrylic (max 10mm)
* [[tips on lasercutting foam | Foamcore]] (non-PVC variety)
* Correx (Genuine non PVC)
* Depron foam (Fire risk, must be closely monitored)
* EVA Foam (if real)
* Delrin (max 8mm)

====Textiles====
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton (Not plastic-impregnated fabric)
* Polar Fleece

====For engraving only====
* Stone (Engrave only)
* Ceramic tile (Engrave only)
* Non-resinous wood IE hardwood (Engrave only)
* Glass (Engrave only)
* Anodized Aluminium (Engrave only)

===Explicitly banned===

You should only be cutting materials on the Allowed list.

If you want to cut a material which is not on this list, contact one of the maintainers and get them to OK it first.

* Food (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Body parts
* Plastics containing PVC (laser contamination, emissions)
* Plastics containing ABS (laser contamination, fire risk, cyanide emission)
* Fibreglass (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Circuit boards (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Polycarbonate (laser contamination, fire risk)
* All metal (except engraving anodized aluminium)
* Polystyrene (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Polypropylene (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* HDPE (high-density polyethylene or polyethylene) (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Carbon fibre (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Shuttering ply (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Latex (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)

== Cutting Parameters ==
'''For list of material settings, see [[A2_Greyfin_Laser_Cutter_Materials_Information|Cutting Parameters]].

== Trainers and maintainers ==

If you have questions or problems with the laser cutter, please speak to one of these people:

* T Gomi
* Nicholas W
* Peter H

== Inducted Members ==

These members have attended an induction (if you're name is not on the list arrange an induction before using)

==Technical Specs==
* Glass laser tube (80W rated power) - recommended max tube current 22mA
* "MYJG-80R" laser power supply
* Leetro [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/20.html MPC6515C] (v2.0) motion controller
* LaserCut 5.3 software.
* [http://www.teyuchiller.com/Products/ChillerCW52001400Wco.html S&A CW-5200] water chiller

[[Category:Tools for use on wood]]
[[Category:Tools for use on plastic]]

Greyfin A2 laser cutter

2021-03-21T16:27:18Z

Toby Catlin: /* Tech specs */

== DRAFT copied from LHS wiki ==
[[temporary lasercutter booking page]]

==Training==

You must not use the laser cutter without being trained. The laser cutter is unlikely to hurt you, but you can easily hurt '''it''' without training. For more information about laser cutter training, see the [[Lasercutter Training]] page.

==Costs==

* Training - Free
* Usage - £5/hour, £1/10minutes
* Consumables - Bring your own and/or use what is in the off cuts bin or purchase from the HS stock via iZettle, but always ensure (rather than assume) it's [[Laser_Cutter/Instructions#Chlorine_Testing_and_Material_Safety|laser safe]].

==Tech specs==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Spec !! Value
|-
| Laser power: || 60W
|-
| Maximum cutting area: || 600 x 400mm
|-
| Body dimensions:|| 1,360 x 880 x 1,070mm
|-
| Repeatability:|| ± 0.05mm
|-
| Power source:|| AC 110 – 220V ± 10%, 50 – 60Hz
|-
| Total power:|| <1,000 W
|-
| Operating temperature:|| 0 – 45 °C
|-
| Humidity:|| 5 – 95%
|-
| Minimum character size:|| 2mm Chinese character alphanumeric 1mm
|-
| Corresponding data format:|| BMP, PLT, DST, DXF, and AI
|-
| Operating system:|| stepper motor
|-
| Cooling system:|| water-cooled
|-
| Control system:|| DSP control system
|-
| Weight:|| 170kg
|-
|}

== Laser Cutter instructions ==

[[Laser Cutter/Instructions|Laser Cutter Instructions]]

==Rules==
;'''1) Never leave the laser cutter running unattended*'''
:You should always be next to the Laser Cutter and paying attention to it while the laser is active, ''I cannot state how important it is to monitor the laser cutter whilst it is in use, it knows when you're not watching and will burst into flames the second you turn your back.'' If you have to leave the laser cutter unattended, use the pause button. '''In case of fire''': use the fire blanket first if that doesn't work use the CO2 extinguisher by the laser cutter and/or raise the fire alarm.

;'''2) If the Laser Cutter breaks or behaves abnormally, put it Out of Order and post to the mailing list'''
:If the laser cutter starts behaving weirdly, doesn't cut correctly with the correct settings, makes <strike>interesting</strike> worrying noises, any of the ancillary machines (cooler/extractor/air assist) are not working properly or if there has been a fire, place it out of order and post to Slack detailing what went wrong. If you don't use slack, get someone else to post for you.

;'''3) Do not use if you haven't had training'''
A trained member can do a job for another person as long as the trained member is the one using the laser cutter.

;'''4) You must be a member of Norwich Hackspace to use the laser cutter'''
:The Laser Cutter is a machine owned and operated by Norwich Hackspace, therefore you must be a member to use it. If you were a trained member and your membership payments have lapsed, access will automatically be revoked until you become a member again. Having a trained member cut a job for a non-member is perfectly fine.

;'''5) Always pay for your usage'''
:The Laser Cutter costs £5/hour to use. You only have to pay for the time that the laser is active for, not any setup or preparation time. All money goes towards maintenance and buying consumables like mirrors, lenses and new laser tubes. If there is not enough money to cover the cost of consumables when something needs replacing due to people using the Laser Cutter without paying, they simply won't be bought, rendering the Laser Cutter out of order until we find another way of raising money to cover the costs.

;'''6) Only cut approved materials of an acceptable thickness, never cut materials on the banned list or materials that are too thick.*'''
:If you would like to cut a material that is not on the Approved List, contact one of the maintainers, we will do some research and testing (or instruct you to do the testing) to see if the materials is safe to laser cut, if it is, it will be added to the Approved List. Acceptable thicknesses are shown on the cutting parameters page.

;'''7) Log all jobs correctly in the logbook - not currently used'''
:Currently, the logbook is the only way the maintainers can view the status of the cutter and how it's performing on a day-to-day basis. It is vital that you complete this for each job done with any power settings used; you can add multiple jobs together into a single log if they used the same settings, material and were all successful. A link to the logbook is on the desktop, on the bookmarks bar or [ here].

;'''8) Do not disable any of the ancillary components such as the air assist, extractor or cooler'''
:These all have their purpose in protecting the Laser Cutter and making it work correctly, please do not disable any of these for any reason whatsoever.

;'''9) Don't place cutting waste in the scrap bins'''
: The scrap bins are only for usable bits of material you don't want any more. '''A usable bit of material is anything 10cm2 or larger without any cuts or engraving on it'''. Please snap any unusable bits off to make it as small as possible. Cutting waste is fully recyclable and can be placed in any bin in the hackspace, PLEASE DO NOT PUT IT IN THE SCRAPS BIN!

'''Violation of these rules will result in either a verbal warning, a written warning, being made to redo the training, a temporary ban or in the most extreme cases a permanent ban issues by the maintainers. We will try and be as fair as possible and we really don't want to punish people and prevent them from using the machine, we'd much rather educate about the correct way to use it. However, this is not an excuse for rules ignorance.'''

'''*Violation of rules 1 or 3 (or excessive violation of rule 6) will result in an immediate ban without warning.'''

'''All bans will be made public and be able to be appealed against.'''

==Software==
* LaserCut 5.3
* [https://xoihazard.com/tools/halftone/ Halftone vector generator] - Takes a picture and converts it into a representation of the image using ploygons. Its a cool way to get around the lack of greyscale functionality

==Where to get supplies/consumables/materials==
* [http://www.hamaracrylic.co.uk/hamar_acrylic_products.aspx Hamar] - 16A Bidder Street London, E16 4ST. 8am-5pm Mon-Fri
* [https://hobarts.com/sheet-materials_124/ Hobarts] - mail order
* [http://kitronic.co.uk Kitronic] - mail order, good ply
* [http://www.blueprintmodel.co.uk/ Bluprint models] Arch 258, Paradise Row, Bethnal Green, London. E2 9LE - On Cambridge Heath Road - & mail order - good for MDF, their perspex is shit
* [http://www.mdfcuttosize.com/ MDF Cut to Size] - 413 Wick Lane, Bow, London, E3 2JG - Pay for the size you want cut
* [http://www.thenaturalworkshop.co.uk/ The Natural Workshop (Website)] - [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/thenaturalworkshop/ The Natural Workshop (eBay)]- mail order
* [https://www.jennortimber.co.uk/products/plywood Jennor Timber], Lockfield Avenue, Enfield EN3 7QL, or 13 Braintree Rd, Ruislip HA4 0EJ. Laser grade birch ply. Not listed on their website, but they do it - it's in their catalogue, and they know their stuff. Give them a call.

==List of allowed and banned materials ==
===Allowed===
====Woods====
* Laser-grade plywood
** Birch ply (max 9mm)
** Poplar ply (max 9mm)
* Balsa wood
* Paper (cutting only)
* Card/Cardboard (cutting only) [[tips on lasercutting card]]

====Plastics====
* Thin Polypropylene sheet (<1mm)
* Acrylic (max 10mm)
* [[tips on lasercutting foam | Foamcore]] (non-PVC variety)
* Correx (Genuine non PVC)
* Depron foam (Fire risk, must be closely monitored)
* EVA Foam (if real)
* Delrin (max 8mm)

====Textiles====
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton (Not plastic-impregnated fabric)
* Polar Fleece

====For engraving only====
* Stone (Engrave only)
* Ceramic tile (Engrave only)
* Non-resinous wood IE hardwood (Engrave only)
* Glass (Engrave only)
* Anodized Aluminium (Engrave only)

===Explicitly banned===

You should only be cutting materials on the Allowed list.

If you want to cut a material which is not on this list, contact one of the maintainers and get them to OK it first.

* Food (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Body parts
* Plastics containing PVC (laser contamination, emissions)
* Plastics containing ABS (laser contamination, fire risk, cyanide emission)
* Fibreglass (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Circuit boards (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Polycarbonate (laser contamination, fire risk)
* All metal (except engraving anodized aluminium)
* Polystyrene (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Polypropylene (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* HDPE (high-density polyethylene or polyethylene) (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Carbon fibre (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Shuttering ply (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Latex (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)

== Cutting Parameters ==
'''For list of material settings, see [[A2_Greyfin_Laser_Cutter_Materials_Information|Cutting Parameters]].

== Trainers and maintainers ==

If you have questions or problems with the laser cutter, please speak to one of these people:

* T Gomi
* Nicholas W
* Peter H

== Inducted Members ==

These members have attended an induction (if you're name is not on the list arrange an induction before using)

==Technical Specs==
* Glass laser tube (80W rated power) - recommended max tube current 22mA
* "MYJG-80R" laser power supply
* Leetro [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/20.html MPC6515C] (v2.0) motion controller
* LaserCut 5.3 software.
* [http://www.teyuchiller.com/Products/ChillerCW52001400Wco.html S&A CW-5200] water chiller

[[Category:Tools for use on wood]]
[[Category:Tools for use on plastic]]

Greyfin A2 laser cutter

2021-03-21T16:26:29Z

Toby Catlin:

== DRAFT copied from LHS wiki ==
[[temporary lasercutter booking page]]

==Training==

You must not use the laser cutter without being trained. The laser cutter is unlikely to hurt you, but you can easily hurt '''it''' without training. For more information about laser cutter training, see the [[Lasercutter Training]] page.

==Costs==

* Training - Free
* Usage - £5/hour, £1/10minutes
* Consumables - Bring your own and/or use what is in the off cuts bin or purchase from the HS stock via iZettle, but always ensure (rather than assume) it's [[Laser_Cutter/Instructions#Chlorine_Testing_and_Material_Safety|laser safe]].

==Tech specs==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Spec !! Value
|-
| Laser power: || 60W
|-
| Maximum cutting area: || 600 x 400mm
|-
| Body dimensions:|| 1,360 x 880 x 1,070mm
| Repeatability:|| ± 0.05mm
| Power source:|| AC 110 – 220V ± 10%, 50 – 60Hz
| Total power:|| <1,000 W
| Operating temperature:|| 0 – 45 °C
| Humidity:|| 5 – 95%
| Minimum character size:|| 2mm Chinese character alphanumeric 1mm
| Corresponding data format:|| BMP, PLT, DST, DXF, and AI
| Operating system:|| stepper motor
| Cooling system:|| water-cooled
| Control system:|| DSP control system
| Weight:|| 170kg
|}

== Laser Cutter instructions ==

[[Laser Cutter/Instructions|Laser Cutter Instructions]]

==Rules==
;'''1) Never leave the laser cutter running unattended*'''
:You should always be next to the Laser Cutter and paying attention to it while the laser is active, ''I cannot state how important it is to monitor the laser cutter whilst it is in use, it knows when you're not watching and will burst into flames the second you turn your back.'' If you have to leave the laser cutter unattended, use the pause button. '''In case of fire''': use the fire blanket first if that doesn't work use the CO2 extinguisher by the laser cutter and/or raise the fire alarm.

;'''2) If the Laser Cutter breaks or behaves abnormally, put it Out of Order and post to the mailing list'''
:If the laser cutter starts behaving weirdly, doesn't cut correctly with the correct settings, makes <strike>interesting</strike> worrying noises, any of the ancillary machines (cooler/extractor/air assist) are not working properly or if there has been a fire, place it out of order and post to Slack detailing what went wrong. If you don't use slack, get someone else to post for you.

;'''3) Do not use if you haven't had training'''
A trained member can do a job for another person as long as the trained member is the one using the laser cutter.

;'''4) You must be a member of Norwich Hackspace to use the laser cutter'''
:The Laser Cutter is a machine owned and operated by Norwich Hackspace, therefore you must be a member to use it. If you were a trained member and your membership payments have lapsed, access will automatically be revoked until you become a member again. Having a trained member cut a job for a non-member is perfectly fine.

;'''5) Always pay for your usage'''
:The Laser Cutter costs £5/hour to use. You only have to pay for the time that the laser is active for, not any setup or preparation time. All money goes towards maintenance and buying consumables like mirrors, lenses and new laser tubes. If there is not enough money to cover the cost of consumables when something needs replacing due to people using the Laser Cutter without paying, they simply won't be bought, rendering the Laser Cutter out of order until we find another way of raising money to cover the costs.

;'''6) Only cut approved materials of an acceptable thickness, never cut materials on the banned list or materials that are too thick.*'''
:If you would like to cut a material that is not on the Approved List, contact one of the maintainers, we will do some research and testing (or instruct you to do the testing) to see if the materials is safe to laser cut, if it is, it will be added to the Approved List. Acceptable thicknesses are shown on the cutting parameters page.

;'''7) Log all jobs correctly in the logbook - not currently used'''
:Currently, the logbook is the only way the maintainers can view the status of the cutter and how it's performing on a day-to-day basis. It is vital that you complete this for each job done with any power settings used; you can add multiple jobs together into a single log if they used the same settings, material and were all successful. A link to the logbook is on the desktop, on the bookmarks bar or [ here].

;'''8) Do not disable any of the ancillary components such as the air assist, extractor or cooler'''
:These all have their purpose in protecting the Laser Cutter and making it work correctly, please do not disable any of these for any reason whatsoever.

;'''9) Don't place cutting waste in the scrap bins'''
: The scrap bins are only for usable bits of material you don't want any more. '''A usable bit of material is anything 10cm2 or larger without any cuts or engraving on it'''. Please snap any unusable bits off to make it as small as possible. Cutting waste is fully recyclable and can be placed in any bin in the hackspace, PLEASE DO NOT PUT IT IN THE SCRAPS BIN!

'''Violation of these rules will result in either a verbal warning, a written warning, being made to redo the training, a temporary ban or in the most extreme cases a permanent ban issues by the maintainers. We will try and be as fair as possible and we really don't want to punish people and prevent them from using the machine, we'd much rather educate about the correct way to use it. However, this is not an excuse for rules ignorance.'''

'''*Violation of rules 1 or 3 (or excessive violation of rule 6) will result in an immediate ban without warning.'''

'''All bans will be made public and be able to be appealed against.'''

==Software==
* LaserCut 5.3
* [https://xoihazard.com/tools/halftone/ Halftone vector generator] - Takes a picture and converts it into a representation of the image using ploygons. Its a cool way to get around the lack of greyscale functionality

==Where to get supplies/consumables/materials==
* [http://www.hamaracrylic.co.uk/hamar_acrylic_products.aspx Hamar] - 16A Bidder Street London, E16 4ST. 8am-5pm Mon-Fri
* [https://hobarts.com/sheet-materials_124/ Hobarts] - mail order
* [http://kitronic.co.uk Kitronic] - mail order, good ply
* [http://www.blueprintmodel.co.uk/ Bluprint models] Arch 258, Paradise Row, Bethnal Green, London. E2 9LE - On Cambridge Heath Road - & mail order - good for MDF, their perspex is shit
* [http://www.mdfcuttosize.com/ MDF Cut to Size] - 413 Wick Lane, Bow, London, E3 2JG - Pay for the size you want cut
* [http://www.thenaturalworkshop.co.uk/ The Natural Workshop (Website)] - [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/thenaturalworkshop/ The Natural Workshop (eBay)]- mail order
* [https://www.jennortimber.co.uk/products/plywood Jennor Timber], Lockfield Avenue, Enfield EN3 7QL, or 13 Braintree Rd, Ruislip HA4 0EJ. Laser grade birch ply. Not listed on their website, but they do it - it's in their catalogue, and they know their stuff. Give them a call.

==List of allowed and banned materials ==
===Allowed===
====Woods====
* Laser-grade plywood
** Birch ply (max 9mm)
** Poplar ply (max 9mm)
* Balsa wood
* Paper (cutting only)
* Card/Cardboard (cutting only) [[tips on lasercutting card]]

====Plastics====
* Thin Polypropylene sheet (<1mm)
* Acrylic (max 10mm)
* [[tips on lasercutting foam | Foamcore]] (non-PVC variety)
* Correx (Genuine non PVC)
* Depron foam (Fire risk, must be closely monitored)
* EVA Foam (if real)
* Delrin (max 8mm)

====Textiles====
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton (Not plastic-impregnated fabric)
* Polar Fleece

====For engraving only====
* Stone (Engrave only)
* Ceramic tile (Engrave only)
* Non-resinous wood IE hardwood (Engrave only)
* Glass (Engrave only)
* Anodized Aluminium (Engrave only)

===Explicitly banned===

You should only be cutting materials on the Allowed list.

If you want to cut a material which is not on this list, contact one of the maintainers and get them to OK it first.

* Food (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Body parts
* Plastics containing PVC (laser contamination, emissions)
* Plastics containing ABS (laser contamination, fire risk, cyanide emission)
* Fibreglass (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Circuit boards (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Polycarbonate (laser contamination, fire risk)
* All metal (except engraving anodized aluminium)
* Polystyrene (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Polypropylene (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* HDPE (high-density polyethylene or polyethylene) (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Carbon fibre (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Shuttering ply (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)
* Latex (laser contamination, fire risk, emissions)

== Cutting Parameters ==
'''For list of material settings, see [[A2_Greyfin_Laser_Cutter_Materials_Information|Cutting Parameters]].

== Trainers and maintainers ==

If you have questions or problems with the laser cutter, please speak to one of these people:

* T Gomi
* Nicholas W
* Peter H

== Inducted Members ==

These members have attended an induction (if you're name is not on the list arrange an induction before using)

==Technical Specs==
* Glass laser tube (80W rated power) - recommended max tube current 22mA
* "MYJG-80R" laser power supply
* Leetro [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/20.html MPC6515C] (v2.0) motion controller
* LaserCut 5.3 software.
* [http://www.teyuchiller.com/Products/ChillerCW52001400Wco.html S&A CW-5200] water chiller

[[Category:Tools for use on wood]]
[[Category:Tools for use on plastic]]

Plasma CNC

2021-03-18T10:43:42Z

Toby Catlin: /* Progress */

==Summary==
Build a large sized XY CNC table capable of using a plasma torch to accurately cut metal.

* Project lead: Toby
* Team:
* Location: Metalspace
* Status: Design phase

Help wanted: electronics, cad, frame

==Equipment==
* 2x Y-axis 2m Rollon ELM65 enclosed linear rail
* 1x X-axis Rollon ROBOT130 X gantry
* 2x Servo motors 86HSE8N-BC38
* 2x HSS86 servo motor drivers
* 2x bonfiglioli MP 080 planetary gearboxes
* A crappy steel frame

The Rollon rails are very high quality industrial components that are sealed to dust. The Y axis rails use toothed belts inside the rail and the X axis used ball screws and twin linear rails. The motors are large high powered units with encoders that measure the actual movement and sends it back to the driver. This closed loop setup means that the driver can compensate for any missed step allowing for finer microstepping and increased reliability.

== Docs ==
* [[Media:HSS86_manual.pdf]]
* [[Media:GRBL_Settings_Pocket_Guide.pdf]]

==Hardware==

===Frame===
The frame must be as rigid as practically possible whilst still portable.

Plan A - 40mm box steel, 5mm wall thickness
Rectangle: 1345mm x 1825mm
For additional stiffness two such rectangles could be stacked and braced.

[[File:PlasmaCNC v9.png|600px]]

Side
[[File:Frame side elevation.png|600px]]

Top
[[File:Frame top elevation.png|600px]]
This was a suggestion to increase stiffness at reduced cost

Plan B - Use 60mm I-beam for y rails

===MP 080 gearbox===
MP 080 2 70 STD 73A1 CD 14 S1 OR SB KE

MP - range
080 - model/frame size
2 - reduction
70 - gear ratio
STD - Backlash (standard = 15')
73A1- input shaft
CD - motor couping (CD - clamping device)
14 - input shaft bore
S1 - duty (S1 = continuous)
OR - position (OR = horizontal)
SB - Output shaft bearings (SB = standard)
KE - Output shaft config (KE - keyed shaft)

===HSS86 servo motor drivers===

===86HSE8N-BC38 Servo motors===

===Rollon ELM65===
Uses AT5 32mm steel reinforced polyurethane belt
AT5 refers to the tooth spacing of 5mm

===Rollon ROBOT130===

==Software==
Looking at the HSS86 datasheet it appear to work just like standard polou steppers that take a ENABLE, DIR & STEP signal input. Therefore a GRBL based controller should be ideal for driving the CNC.

I have successfully driven one of the motors using a basic arduino sketch to send pulse and dir signals.
Setting the signals high +5 volts with a common ground did not work. The datasheet for HSS86 shows a common 5v with a on signal represented as pin output low. This requirement means that GRBL is not working and need to configure GRBL to invert the high/low signals.

== Progress ==
=== 18-03-2021 ===
CAD drawing of basic frame done and quotes sent to Eastern steel and oak street fab

=== 11-10-2020 ===
Starting the frame by drawing it out in fusion360, using this tutorial as a https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH3QWscviBc
Aim to calculate what steel is needed to purchase and use the model to make it as strong as possible.

note: box tube fillets (curves on edges) are:
* External radius = 1.5t
* Internal radius = 1.0t
(where t = wall thickness)

=== 04-10-2020 - LESSON LEARNT! do not run into the endstops ===
It turned out the test of running into the endstop was catastrophic as it snapped the drive side Y axis belt. This was discovered by removing the black dust strip to see the belt bunched up inside. I could also move the mount plate without the drive motor turning.

We (toby & alan) took apart the Y rail starting with the drive motor side and could see that the belt had cleanly snapped where it connects to the mount plate. The belt is held down into a toothed metal connector so we moved both sides down by 3 teeth, so that the belt is effectively held by half the original amount of belt. Far from ideal and will be replaced but should hold for now.

Upon reassembling, I realised the black dust strip has to be bolted into the rail end plate before assembly otherwise you dont have access to the nuts underneath. The drive side needs to be attached first to be able to get the belt round the drive pulley.

The belt is Megadyne 32 AT5

=== 27-09-2020 - Y axis ===
Given the success of running the X axis, I wanted to check the movement of the Y axis and so bolted the Y rails to the frame and the X gantry to the Y rails. I took some extra time to align the rails and added a 10mm spacer block of steel under then ends of the Y rail for support.

Both Y rails moved well if a bit slowly. The torque seems huge as I cannot even begin to slow down the drive by hand. I also did a test to see if the encoders would detect the rails being run into the end stop. They didn't.

=== 20-09-2020 - GRBL works ===
The simple sketch showed it was possible to drive the HSS86 from an Arduino so it must be possible to get GRBL working if it can be configured to output the correct signals.
The default is for the output pin to be HIGH when on. Due to the wiring of the HSS86 we now need to pull the pin LOW to indicate on. Therefore the output signals for GRBL also need to be inverted so that LOW is on rather than high.

GBBL has a numbered config array that is stored on flash memory on the Arduino.
The docs indicates that $2 controls "Step Pulse Configuration" and will invert any of the axis according to a bit mask.

$2=7 will invert all the axis

Once I had set this value and fixed a wiring mistake the X gantry moved using GRBL by sending Gcode over the serial monitor. It also followed the acceleration curves set by GRBL and was smoother than the simple sketch.

WOOT WOOT - this means all of the required functionality will work via GRBL

I also spent some time dialing in the steps per mm setting ($100) so that it would move the correct amount according to the steps sent. Ideally I would calculate this but I don't know the rollon specs or the planetary gearbox specs. Using a round guess I got it close with $100=300 but will need a dial indicator to improve further. It also might be possible to find the numbers in the Rollon docs.

=== 12-09-2020 - Simple test sketch ===
The datasheet for the HSS86 shows that all the +5v pins should be connected and the signal pins pulled low.
[[File:HSS86 wiring diagram.png|thumb]]

This makes no sense especially as the previous owner had also wired ground together but seemed to be worth trying. I had some very useful discussion on slack and was suggested that GRBL was not good to test with as its pretty complicated with lots to go wrong. I switched to a much simpler sketch that essentially just set the output pins. I used the same pinouts that GRBL uses for the X axis (2,5,8).

<pre>
const int stepPin = 2; //white
const int dirPin = 5; //black
const int enPin = 8; //red
char data;
float step_delay_time = 500;

void setup() {
pinMode(stepPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(dirPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(enPin, OUTPUT);

digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
Serial.begin(115200);
}

void loop() {
if (Serial.available() > 0) // we give commands through serial monitor
{
data = Serial.read(); //command from monitor
if (data == 'a') //stepper 1 right
{
digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
digitalWrite(dirPin, HIGH); //motor will rotate write
for (int x = 0; x < 500; x++)
{
digitalWrite(stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(step_delay_time);
digitalWrite(stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(step_delay_time);

Serial.println(x);
if (Serial.read() == 'x') //to stop
{
digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
Serial.print("stop");
break;
}
}
}
}
</pre>
Much to my surprise and pleasure this worked.

=== 09-09-2020 - Test drive #1 ===
The plan is to feed the HSS86 driver with the same signals as standard stepper motors. This is to send +5v to the STEP, DIR and ENABLE pins and have all the grounds connected together. I GRBL to send the pulses with universal gcode sender. After a few hours of fiddling nothing worked.

Plasma CNC

2021-03-18T10:24:37Z

Toby Catlin: /* Frame */

==Summary==
Build a large sized XY CNC table capable of using a plasma torch to accurately cut metal.

* Project lead: Toby
* Team:
* Location: Metalspace
* Status: Design phase

Help wanted: electronics, cad, frame

==Equipment==
* 2x Y-axis 2m Rollon ELM65 enclosed linear rail
* 1x X-axis Rollon ROBOT130 X gantry
* 2x Servo motors 86HSE8N-BC38
* 2x HSS86 servo motor drivers
* 2x bonfiglioli MP 080 planetary gearboxes
* A crappy steel frame

The Rollon rails are very high quality industrial components that are sealed to dust. The Y axis rails use toothed belts inside the rail and the X axis used ball screws and twin linear rails. The motors are large high powered units with encoders that measure the actual movement and sends it back to the driver. This closed loop setup means that the driver can compensate for any missed step allowing for finer microstepping and increased reliability.

== Docs ==
* [[Media:HSS86_manual.pdf]]
* [[Media:GRBL_Settings_Pocket_Guide.pdf]]

==Hardware==

===Frame===
The frame must be as rigid as practically possible whilst still portable.

Plan A - 40mm box steel, 5mm wall thickness
Rectangle: 1345mm x 1825mm
For additional stiffness two such rectangles could be stacked and braced.

[[File:PlasmaCNC v9.png|600px]]

Side
[[File:Frame side elevation.png|600px]]

Top
[[File:Frame top elevation.png|600px]]
This was a suggestion to increase stiffness at reduced cost

Plan B - Use 60mm I-beam for y rails

===MP 080 gearbox===
MP 080 2 70 STD 73A1 CD 14 S1 OR SB KE

MP - range
080 - model/frame size
2 - reduction
70 - gear ratio
STD - Backlash (standard = 15')
73A1- input shaft
CD - motor couping (CD - clamping device)
14 - input shaft bore
S1 - duty (S1 = continuous)
OR - position (OR = horizontal)
SB - Output shaft bearings (SB = standard)
KE - Output shaft config (KE - keyed shaft)

===HSS86 servo motor drivers===

===86HSE8N-BC38 Servo motors===

===Rollon ELM65===
Uses AT5 32mm steel reinforced polyurethane belt
AT5 refers to the tooth spacing of 5mm

===Rollon ROBOT130===

==Software==
Looking at the HSS86 datasheet it appear to work just like standard polou steppers that take a ENABLE, DIR & STEP signal input. Therefore a GRBL based controller should be ideal for driving the CNC.

I have successfully driven one of the motors using a basic arduino sketch to send pulse and dir signals.
Setting the signals high +5 volts with a common ground did not work. The datasheet for HSS86 shows a common 5v with a on signal represented as pin output low. This requirement means that GRBL is not working and need to configure GRBL to invert the high/low signals.

== Progress ==
=== 11-10-2020 ===
Starting the frame by drawing it out in fusion360, using this tutorial as a https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH3QWscviBc
Aim to calculate what steel is needed to purchase and use the model to make it as strong as possible.

note: box tube fillets (curves on edges) are:
* External radius = 1.5t
* Internal radius = 1.0t
(where t = wall thickness)

=== 04-10-2020 - LESSON LEARNT! do not run into the endstops ===
It turned out the test of running into the endstop was catastrophic as it snapped the drive side Y axis belt. This was discovered by removing the black dust strip to see the belt bunched up inside. I could also move the mount plate without the drive motor turning.

We (toby & alan) took apart the Y rail starting with the drive motor side and could see that the belt had cleanly snapped where it connects to the mount plate. The belt is held down into a toothed metal connector so we moved both sides down by 3 teeth, so that the belt is effectively held by half the original amount of belt. Far from ideal and will be replaced but should hold for now.

Upon reassembling, I realised the black dust strip has to be bolted into the rail end plate before assembly otherwise you dont have access to the nuts underneath. The drive side needs to be attached first to be able to get the belt round the drive pulley.

The belt is Megadyne 32 AT5

=== 27-09-2020 - Y axis ===
Given the success of running the X axis, I wanted to check the movement of the Y axis and so bolted the Y rails to the frame and the X gantry to the Y rails. I took some extra time to align the rails and added a 10mm spacer block of steel under then ends of the Y rail for support.

Both Y rails moved well if a bit slowly. The torque seems huge as I cannot even begin to slow down the drive by hand. I also did a test to see if the encoders would detect the rails being run into the end stop. They didn't.

=== 20-09-2020 - GRBL works ===
The simple sketch showed it was possible to drive the HSS86 from an Arduino so it must be possible to get GRBL working if it can be configured to output the correct signals.
The default is for the output pin to be HIGH when on. Due to the wiring of the HSS86 we now need to pull the pin LOW to indicate on. Therefore the output signals for GRBL also need to be inverted so that LOW is on rather than high.

GBBL has a numbered config array that is stored on flash memory on the Arduino.
The docs indicates that $2 controls "Step Pulse Configuration" and will invert any of the axis according to a bit mask.

$2=7 will invert all the axis

Once I had set this value and fixed a wiring mistake the X gantry moved using GRBL by sending Gcode over the serial monitor. It also followed the acceleration curves set by GRBL and was smoother than the simple sketch.

WOOT WOOT - this means all of the required functionality will work via GRBL

I also spent some time dialing in the steps per mm setting ($100) so that it would move the correct amount according to the steps sent. Ideally I would calculate this but I don't know the rollon specs or the planetary gearbox specs. Using a round guess I got it close with $100=300 but will need a dial indicator to improve further. It also might be possible to find the numbers in the Rollon docs.

=== 12-09-2020 - Simple test sketch ===
The datasheet for the HSS86 shows that all the +5v pins should be connected and the signal pins pulled low.
[[File:HSS86 wiring diagram.png|thumb]]

This makes no sense especially as the previous owner had also wired ground together but seemed to be worth trying. I had some very useful discussion on slack and was suggested that GRBL was not good to test with as its pretty complicated with lots to go wrong. I switched to a much simpler sketch that essentially just set the output pins. I used the same pinouts that GRBL uses for the X axis (2,5,8).

<pre>
const int stepPin = 2; //white
const int dirPin = 5; //black
const int enPin = 8; //red
char data;
float step_delay_time = 500;

void setup() {
pinMode(stepPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(dirPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(enPin, OUTPUT);

digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
Serial.begin(115200);
}

void loop() {
if (Serial.available() > 0) // we give commands through serial monitor
{
data = Serial.read(); //command from monitor
if (data == 'a') //stepper 1 right
{
digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
digitalWrite(dirPin, HIGH); //motor will rotate write
for (int x = 0; x < 500; x++)
{
digitalWrite(stepPin, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(step_delay_time);
digitalWrite(stepPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(step_delay_time);

Serial.println(x);
if (Serial.read() == 'x') //to stop
{
digitalWrite(enPin, HIGH);
Serial.print("stop");
break;
}
}
}
}
</pre>
Much to my surprise and pleasure this worked.

=== 09-09-2020 - Test drive #1 ===
The plan is to feed the HSS86 driver with the same signals as standard stepper motors. This is to send +5v to the STEP, DIR and ENABLE pins and have all the grounds connected together. I GRBL to send the pulses with universal gcode sender. After a few hours of fiddling nothing worked.